Pull Switch Question

[pz8l8t]

Hi All,
Does anybody know if there is a pull switch that can be brought which can operate 2 seprate power feeds from 1 switch. let me explain in a bit more detail:

a 2 gang light switch allows 2 separate connections to it at the back (cable a and cable b). the 2 gangs control each cable.

What I'm after is a pull switch (so single gang), but has 2 separate connections at the back like a 2 gang light switch decribed above.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[stem]

Two way pull switches are readily available. They used to be common in bedrooms fixed over the bed where they operated the bedroom light in conjunction with the switch near the door.

They have a common terminal and L1 terminal & L2 terminal. Each pull changes the common between L1 and then L2

 

[pz8l8t]

Thanks for the reponse. I should have stated the intended purpose which I forgot. This is to wire a ceiling light and a extractor fan in the bathroom. What I have is one connection for the extractor fan. One for the ceiling light.

The extractor fan is connected via a fused spur outside the bathroom. The load from the spur is connected to a junction box. At the junction box, there is the feed coming from the spur, 3-core and earth going to the fan transformer, a cable running to the pull switch.


The junction box for the light (separate from the fan) has a loop in and out feed and a cable running to the pull switch.

So I have 2 separate cables at the pull switch, which I want to operate via 1 switch but be connected independantly from each other (i.e. I want to maintain sepration of the live wire).

So Hence the question. I'm trying to work out if I can use a double pole pull switch. Would this work? would it maintain the separation of the live?
Thanks

 

[Taylortwocities]

It should not be necessary if they are both powered from the same circuit. But if you feel that you must, buy a double pole pull switch
Like this http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK3151.html

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Two way pull switches are readily available. They used to be common in bedrooms fixed over the bed where they operated the bedroom light in conjunction with the switch near the door.

They have a common terminal and L1 terminal & L2 terminal. Each pull changes the common between L1 and then L2

But that sort of switch will be no good for the OP - he doesn't need a 2-way switch he needs a double-pole one.....

 

[pz8l8t]

Thanks for the reply. Just looked at the wiki, and as you state, a double pole pull switch should do it. will this ok?

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/86784...e-Low-Profile/Crabtree-Pull-Switch-Chrome-50A

Missis will want a chrome finish

 

[Paul_C]

I'm trying to work out if I can use a double pole pull switch. Would this work? would it maintain the separation of the live?

Yes, and yes. Each pole of the switch is completely separate from the other pole, so in effect it works exactly as if you had two single-pole switches with the handles linked together so that they can only be operated simultaneously.

I would consider the arrangement carefully though. Do you really want the fan to turn on every time you switch on the light?

 

[Paul_C]

Thanks for the reply. Just looked at the wiki, and as you state, a double pole pull switch should do it. will this ok?

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/86784...ofile/Crabtree-Pull-Switch-Chrome-50A[/QUOTE]

A 50A switch is kind of overkill for a light and a fan!

Also, a neon connected across the output of a D.P. switch used in this application would be of no use, since it would never light.

 

[pz8l8t]

Thanks for the reponse & help guys. Really appreciate it.

@Paul_C, yes, that's what I want, for the fan to come on when the pull switch is switched on. It's a timed fan, so, it will over run when the switch is switched off.

Referring to this diagram:
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:lighting:fan

It looks like you guys have pointed me in the right direction. Thanks.

I know the 50amp is a bit of an over kill, but as it's chrome (missis wants chrome), it fits our needs.

I've just read the instructions for the switch and it states:

"Supply cable must be connected to terminals on the side marked "IN" and load cables to terminals on the side marked "OUT"

Will this work for my requirements? To me, supply and load means that the switch will just connect the live and neutral between supply and load much like an FCU?

 

[wingcoax]

Supply means the live and neutral from the Cu or other feed and load means the cable to the equipment. The switch cuts both live and neutral.

 

[Paul_C]

The switch terminals will be marked L & N on each side (in & out, or feed & load), since the usual application for a D.P. switch is to break both L & N of a single circuit.

However in your proposed application, you would be using each half of the switch for a separate circuit.

So if you have two separate T&E switch drops to the pull switch, you would connect one cable to L-in & L-out, the other cable to N-in and N-out. And if you use that Crabtree 50A unit, disconnect the neon.

 

[333rocky333]

In your case you would use the N in and N out as your second Live in and Live out.
I read your switch had a neon indicator, what was your plan for that though.

 

[pz8l8t]

Thanks guys. I'll give it a go. I'll disconnect the neon light as suggested.

So, this is my plan to wire:

1st cable : live to supply live. Neutral to load live:
2nd cable: live to supply netutral. neutral to load neutral.

That's how I have interpretted what you guys have suggested. Thanks guys, really appreciate your time and advise.

 

[333rocky333]

You do realise that switch will have a quite heavy duty action, which you may not like.
I would source a lower rated one, like TTC previously suggested, you can get chrome decor covers for white ones.

 

[333rocky333]

1st cable : live to supply live. **** to load live:
2nd cable: live to supply ****. **** to load ****.

No one suggested that
That is highly dangerous


Edit.
I see now,Do not take this personally.
In this case, you need to stop calling the blue or black core neutral on light switch wiring.
This is misleading and another Diy person following your posts, could injure thereselves or cause damage.
You done similar here.
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=185836