Pulled hep2o insert out of pipe when demounting and reinserted

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I tried to dismount a few (difficult to remember it was 5 years ago; 5x cases at worst) 15mm hep2o pipes out of white 15mm elbows using the hep2o dismount tool. With considerable force and stupidity, I pulled the hep2o insert out of the pipe with the insert still inside the elbow despite twisting and pulling the pipe as per instruction. I then stupidly reinserted the same 15mm pipe over the insert which in all cases did require quite a bit of force even with silicone spray and I don't remember any insert being damaged. The question is do I need to redo these sections of pipework (elbow plus 8cm hep2o pipework) as these reinserted inserts may fail? I did use excess pipe clips sometimes using double the recommended amount so the pipework itself is rigid and won't move.
 
I think you're good after 5 years!

The inserts usually get stuck in the fittings when demounting... You can get them out but risk damaging the o ring the insert is stuck on.

Same thing happens with speedfit but with them you can fully undo the locking nut and remove the insert from the unbarbed direction.
 
I think you're good after 5 years!

The inserts usually get stuck in the fittings when demounting... You can get them out but risk damaging the o ring the insert is stuck on.

Same thing happens with speedfit but with them you can fully undo the locking nut and remove the insert from the unbarbed direction.
Hep2o are disingenuous with their claim that the pipework is demountable in reality once the pipe is in it is not coming out
 
I think you're good after 5 years!
+1, I'm sure if there was to be an issue it would have reared it's head by now.

HEP are a nightmare when it comes to the demounting and the fitting grabbing the inserts, it seems to come down to the way the insert is made and the open back of the top of the insert catches on the grab ring of the fitting. I always add the lightest or smears of silicone grease to the end of the pipe before fitting and that seems to make it much easier to demount.
 
+1, I'm sure if there was to be an issue it would have reared it's head by now.

HEP are a nightmare when it comes to the demounting and the fitting grabbing the inserts, it seems to come down to the way the insert is made and the open back of the top of the insert catches on the grab ring of the fitting. I always add the lightest or smears of silicone grease to the end of the pipe before fitting and that seems to make it much easier to demount.
Thanks I've bought silicone grease and will apply to the hep2o fittings. My experience is that whenever I've accidentally pulled the insert out of the pipe said pipe is coated with black sludge (iron oxide). I already have 2 magnetic filters (1 flow and 1 return). Adding another magnetic filter on an inlet to a radiator in the bathroom (would need 22mm to 15mm reducers and raising rad height) would further reduce the black sludge. Do you think reducing the black sludge would make demounting the hep2o fittings easier?
 
Do you have inhibitor in the system?
Yes fernox f1 but as I am making continual improvements (bigger radiators etc) to the heating system I have to repeatedly drain down. The system has about 11 rads so nearly takes a whole F1 bottle so is expensive to keep buying a new bottle each time.
 
Lack of inhibitor is allowing the sludge to develop unfortunately, better to top it up once you have finished the upgrades.
 
Lack of inhibitor is allowing the sludge to develop unfortunately, better to top it up once you have finished the upgrades.
Did you read my last post? I do add enough Fernox F1 but am still getting sludge buildup. The heating system uses 22mm and (to the rads) 15mm so no chance of sludge buildup
 
Yes, you said you have been draining the system down to make alterations and can't afford to keep adding inhibitor?


Just trying to help, I hope you find the solution.
I can afford the inhibitor but would rather not keep paying for it. Because of the rubbish plumber who, when he installed the new heating system, mounted huge radiators to plaster using metal rawl plugs (unsuitable for rads) I have been slowly remounting said rads to timber. Still have 3 more drain downs to go. This is why I would rather add another magnetic filter to reduce reliance on fernox f1
 
I prefer copper anyway because copper is proper! ;)
I wish I had used copper BUT because the property uses 1.2mx2.4m chipboard flooring and the joists are not directly below partition walls which makes cutting large sections of board difficult. If standard floorboards were used I could have used copper. The floor layout would mean HUGE chunks of floor missing in all bedrooms for weeks for copper whereas plastic only needs small squares cut out.
 

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