Pump not running

[stevebart]

Hi, i've got a problem with my suprima 40 which i hope someone can help me with.
1. Boiler will ignite either manually or via the timer on control unit.
2. Pump does not engage.
3. After a couple of minutes their is a loud banging and clanking noise that starts around pump area and travels down stairs into the boiler itself.
4. I have checked power supply at pump, no power present. i've gone back to boiler removed side panel and found there is no power from boiler up to pump.
5. Have found that although when tested no power out put could be found it obviously kicks in at some time because this problem has been occurring on and off all week.

Could it be a pcb fault?

 

[ArtfulBodger]

Power from boiler to pump OK, power not reaching pump. Have you tried checking the wiring centre?

 

[meldrew's_mate]

Sound like you are right in suspecting a PCB fault, but it's not the usual PCB fault. In your case there may be a cracked or dry soldered joint on the back of the PCB. Inspect and rectify, or buy a new PCB, but remember, the new PCB is different to the old one and MUST be fitted by a CORGI installer dur to having to open the case to fit it.

 

[stevebart]

cheers lads will follow your advice.

 

[Softus]

Sound like you are right in suspecting a PCB fault, but it's not the usual PCB fault. In your case there may be a cracked or dry soldered joint on the back of the PCB. Inspect and rectify, or buy a new PCB, but remember, the new PCB is different to the old one and MUST be fitted by a CORGI installer dur to having to open the case to fit it.

Not entirely true mm - I've previously spoken to CORGI about this very thing and they say that work within the boiler casing can be carried out, quite legally, by anyone, as long as it doesn't disturb anything to do with gas supply, the combustion process, or the flue.

Specifically, you can work on the PCB and on the water side components, e.g. pump replacement, as long as you are "competent" and observe all the correct safety precautions.

One other thing - if you're considering replacing the PCB, verify first that the pump is not faulty. I've known a faulty pump take out the PCB, and when the new one is fitted then it too shuffles off its mortal coil.

However, if the problem is intermittent then it's more likely to be the classic Potterton dry joint scenario. Kelloggs would have done a better job at making those original boards; recent ones are much better, and for the Suprima there is even an upgrade available, in kit form.

 

[stevebart]

Hi and thanks once again for your replies.
I have had pump running this afternoon no problem.
Then again tonight timer turned on heating, boiler lit ok but minutes later the dreaded clanking and banging appeared.
Ran upstairs to find pump not running.
i've since looked at back of pcb and cannot find any problem with solder.
Bearing in mind i've had this boiler for 6 years and its been running ok.
The only thing i could find was a little soot mark around one of the diodes on the pcb.
As for the possibility of pump being faulty the best possible safeguard would then be to change the pump and have the board repaired.
Am i on the right track?
Many thanks all for your help up to now.
Steve

 

[ollski]

If there is no supply from the pump switch live connection on the board when the pump stops then its the board, wheras if there is 230v at the pump and its not running...there you go, pump.

 

[stevebart]

Hi,
Great response, yes there is no supply from board to pump when boiler lights up so im going to send board off for repair.
Thanks once again.
Steve

 

[Softus]

Yes - you're clearly on the right track.

You have a tricky choice to make - do you ditch what might be a perfectly good pump, or do you risk a new PCB?

I've not seen an intermittently faulty circulating pump before, so since you've seen a fault on the PCB, and if you want to gamble on the basis of my personal experience then just replace the PCB.

Or you could just decide that you're going to replace both, and that way you'll know that you have two new and functioning components.

 

[stevebart]

Hi,
Thanks once again for all of the great help from you all, and softus im going with your experience on the pump and im going to gamble with a repair to the board, i've found a place on the net where you send off faulty board and for a fixed price of £57.00 they repair faulty board and give a 12 month guarantee.
That seems very good when put against a new board at over £200.00.
Thanks
Steve

 

[Softus]

Hi stevebart

A new PCB would be around £180 delivered. Expensive, yes, but it's the latest and greatest edition and less likely to need another £57 repair in 18 months time.

However, I didn't know about the board repair place - I guess most/all of my customers wouldn't want to wait anyway, but I'd be interested to know the outcome and the contact details.

For the record, I would make the same choice as you if it were my boiler.

Rgds
S.

 

[stevebart]

Hi softus, the web site i have found for pcb repairs you will find at www.qer.biz i will post an update and thanks once again for your help
Steve

 

[Softus]

You're welcome, and thanks for the link Steve

 

[ollski]

To be honest if the pump is not receiving voltage there is a board fault. Why not ring BG the fixed fee for sorting the problem will be 132 all in with a 28 day guarantee so if it does turn out to be the pump they will come back and do that too. I can't see a great deal of point in refurbishing an old suprima board when nobody is totally sure of the reason they are so problematic.

 

[Softus]

Hmm. £132 is certainly cheap. You get what you pay for these days though don't you?