Pump Salamander series 119477 not working

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I have a shower pump

Salamander series 119477
Wed 9-09
Pearl 50-Twin
230 V 50 Hz 20 Am

For some reason water presure in the shower (cold or hot) was minimum. I do not know what I should check.

If the pump has to be replaced, could you please give me some idea of cost of pump and labour?
 
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have you checked the fuse supplying the pump?

Either in an FCU or in the plug if it has one
 
View media item 61838
Thank you for the reply. The fuse connection is as shown in the photo. I have just checked for fuses in the local shops and they produced 2, 3, amp fuses.

Do I need to buy a 20 amp fuse?
 
20amp? are you kidding?

The biggest fuse that can go in that FCU is 13amp.
I doubt you'll need more than a 3 or 5 amp fuse. Do look again at the rating plate the info you have given is not correct.

EDIT

That pump is rated as follows

Closed head pressure: 50ft head (1.5 bar)
Max amps/watts: 2 amps/480 watts
Rating: Continuous at 20C 230v
Pump Dimensions: 250 x 150 x 160mm

Its 2 amps, not 20. Good grief. a 3 amp fuse is what is needed, if it is the fuse that has toned....
 
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You can run some flow rate, PSI and electrical checks for this hydraulic/electrical system.

hp = GPM x Head in feet/3956 for a pump that is 100% efficient and hp =~ GPM x head/2000 for 50% efficient.

Efficiency varies and the pump maker has graphs.

Troubleshooting by parts replacements is almost always a bad idea and not just for cost reasons.
 
Your gallons are not the same as those used by everyone else, and we measure head in metres, not feet. Please consider these things when on a UK forum.
 
Also, while we welcome your contribution, please note that this is a forum aimed at UK DIYers (you know, like your Home Improvement).

Throwing in complicated formulae and flow rate/efficiency calculations will close the eyes of 99% of the viewers of this forum.

In any case, our poster has either a blown fuse or a faulty pump. Why complicate matters further?
 
I have read a few of Porque's posts and wondered if he was reading the same thread as me.

If it's not the fuse, how old is the pump? It may still be under warranty
 
Point taken.

While my thanks/posts ratio is below average of the few samples I've taken, I'm not yet in the bottom quartile of this metric. But, if I keep this up I may well be. . .

I guess somewhere above the bottom 5% I'll be out of here, either by my choice or yours.

It seems I'd better start publishing something meaningful to at least half of the OPs and the lurkers who decide to join.

In any case thanks for teaching me some UK English. :D
 
Thank you for your replies.

Following the first advice I have changed the fuse (13 AMP), but the problem with pump remains. Any other suggestion?
 
Do you not read ANYTHING??

I said
a 3 amp fuse is what is needed, .

Why put in a 13amp fuse? It's too big. If you did have a minor fault in the pump it probably has burnt out the innerds of the pump because a 13amp current will fry it.

Well, its your pump. Have you even done the very basic electrical thing of (using a test meter) checking if there is even 230volts on the feed and load sides of the FCU?

Do that first. If there is voltage there, then its time to repair, or replace the pump.
 
While my thanks/posts ratio is below average of the few samples I've taken, I'm not yet in the bottom quartile of this metric.
The ratios are not meaningful, as the Thanks system was not always in place. The old lags are always going to look like poor performers because of the posts made before it was introduced.
 
Thank you for your replies.

The pump was installed around 5 years ago. It performed properly until recently. I do not believe the fuse was ever an issue. Hence I had no reason to check the fuse box until now. There I found, and replaced, a 13 Amp fuse.

I am happy to follow any advise you provide.
 

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