Purlin wall insulation

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For my loft conversion the spec says 100mm celotex on the purlin wall ...

Because there's space behind then can I just use 200mm Earthwool stuffed between and behind the studs ? Quicker easier and same u value ?
 
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Do you have 200mm thick studs?

Is the quilt suitible for vertical use?
 
Do you have 200mm thick studs?

Is the quilt suitible for vertical use?

The way the wall is constructed ( basically its got a recess in it 200 deep ) it would be very easy to create a void behind the studs using battens.
I was looking at Rockwool flexi 100mm behind and 100mm between ? just seems quicker and easier than cutting celotex?

The purlin wall is only 1.2m high
 
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I would not skimp on insulation, my daughters loft conversion was done without the correct insulation and she had to get the company back in to do it correctly after a freezing winter in the loft bedroom.
My own loft has 100mm celotex in purlin wall and 40mm insulated plasterboard over the top.Immediately below the loft the ceiling have a further 100mm celotex and perimeter eaves have over 400mm of rockwool. [just for insulation purposes not a loft conversion.]
Celotex seams all need taping over to maintain complete coverage, how are you going to match that with Earthwool?
 
I would not skimp on insulation, my daughters loft conversion was done without the correct insulation and she had to get the company back in to do it correctly after a freezing winter in the loft bedroom.
My own loft has 100mm celotex in purlin wall and 40mm insulated plasterboard over the top.Immediately below the loft the ceiling have a further 100mm celotex and perimeter eaves have over 400mm of rockwool. [just for insulation purposes not a loft conversion.]
Celotex seams all need taping over to maintain complete coverage, how are you going to match that with Earthwool?


I'm not really worried about the performance because the u-value of 200mm fibre is comparable to 100mm celotex ..... I might also skin the front wall with insulated PB yet and the spec also calls for OSB on the face too, so that adds sealing further. I just want to know if its ok for building control.
 
As long as the relevant u-value is achieved, and a suitable product is used in accordance with the manufacturers instructions, then you can use whatever you like
 
How are you going to get the insulation to stand up without compressing or any sagging? , ruining the u-value?
 
How are you going to get the insulation to stand up without compressing or any sagging? , ruining the u-value?


Ive put battens across the back of the insulation with long screws into the studs..... then just adjusted in/out so it holds the insulation firm but without squashing it
 
How are you going to get the insulation to stand up without compressing or any sagging? , ruining the u-value?


Ive put battens across the back of the insulation with long screws into the studs..... then just adjusted in/out so it holds the insulation firm but without squashing it
Won't hold unless very tight destroying the u value.Does not stand on end.
 
How are you going to get the insulation to stand up without compressing or any sagging? , ruining the u-value?


Ive put battens across the back of the insulation with long screws into the studs..... then just adjusted in/out so it holds the insulation firm but without squashing it
Won't hold unless very tight destroying the u value.Does not stand on end.

Are we talking about the same product ? flexi slabs ? ..... seem to be standing up just fine or the last 72 hours ?
 
Sorry yeah ..... It's the slab stuff and it's stacked on its side not on end.

I agree that loft roll would just fall over
 

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