Purlins into floorboards

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My roof will be taken apart soon, and I will have some old purlins which will be removed.

How or what tools would I need to convert the old purlins into floorboards.

* I was thinking
Table Saw
Sander

1st to square the purlin, then to slice it into smaller bits.

Has anyone attempted this before?
 
It's perfectly possible to do what you wish.
You will need first and foremost to remove any nails or bits of nails.
Then you can rip the timbers down on a bench saw.
After that the pieces would need to be planed and thicknessed, although it is possible to just thickness or regularise and leave the underside sawn.
The boards can be left square edged or tongue and grooved if you have the tools. I've got a set of wooden moulding planes for this which doesn't take as long as you may think.In fact you could if you wished do the whole thing by hand with a rip saw and jack plane but you'd definately be in the minority of people willing to do that.
It's all doable if you have the tools already but not really worth it if you don't, and you won't get a huge amount of boards out of a few purlins.
Still kudos for you for wanting to reuse timber rather than just bung it in a skip.
 
It's perfectly possible to do what you wish.
You will need first and foremost to remove any nails or bits of nails.
Then you can rip the timbers down on a bench saw.
After that the pieces would need to be planed and thicknessed, although it is possible to just thickness or regularise and leave the underside sawn.
The boards can be left square edged or tongue and grooved if you have the tools. I've got a set of wooden moulding planes for this which doesn't take as long as you may think.In fact you could if you wished do the whole thing by hand with a rip saw and jack plane but you'd definately be in the minority of people willing to do that.
It's all doable if you have the tools already but not really worth it if you don't, and you won't get a huge amount of boards out of a few purlins.
Still kudos for you for wanting to reuse timber rather than just bung it in a skip.

Well, I have around

2 x 6 meters
3 x 5 Meters

Cant remember the size of the purlins,
but I am sure they are around 10x6

The moulding plates are they for tounge and groove?

I dont like throwing old material away!
Old is gold!
 
So if your purlins are 10" deep that should give you at least 8 one inch rips and maybe nine depending on the kerf of your blade, and you have around 27m of timber which when ripped down should give you at least 216m of boards with a cover of approx 5 1/2" (sorry to all those that can't stand metric and imperial being mixed but tough).
My moulding planes are like this one-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOUND-VIN...lectable_ToolsHasdware_RL&hash=item4cfe5647e2
and put on the tongue. I use a plough plane like this-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stanly-No...lectable_ToolsHasdware_RL&hash=item256c825331
to put in the groove although a router will also do the job with the correct cutters. It's also possible to put a groove into both sides and use a loose tongue, or simply butt them together without a tongue or even dowel them together.
 
So if your purlins are 10" deep that should give you at least 8 one inch rips and maybe nine depending on the kerf of your blade, and you have around 27m of timber which when ripped down should give you at least 216m of boards with a cover of approx 5 1/2" (sorry to all those that can't stand metric and imperial being mixed but tough).
My moulding planes are like this one-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOUND-VIN...lectable_ToolsHasdware_RL&hash=item4cfe5647e2
and put on the tongue. I use a plough plane like this-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stanly-No...lectable_ToolsHasdware_RL&hash=item256c825331
to put in the groove although a router will also do the job with the correct cutters. It's also possible to put a groove into both sides and use a loose tongue, or simply butt them together without a tongue or even dowel them together.

I am not going for tounge and groove,
Just flat edge.

What table saw / Blade cutter would you recommed.?

can I not cut them @ 22mm thick?

Or would I need to cut them at 1" and then sand down?


Thats alot of floorboards.

thanks
 
those timbers would need flipping are rather unwieldy and probably to dangerous without a 3m table or fully supported area with a roller stand every 3 foot or so about 8 or 10 in total

it will require the removal off the riving knife and guard rendering the machine dangerous

if you rip them down to 22mm they will have many machine marks miss alined saw marks when flipping the planks will also be thinner when ever you get a twist or bow
 
those timbers would need flipping are rather unwieldy and probably to dangerous without a 3m table or fully supported area with a roller stand every 3 foot or so about 8 or 10 in total

it will require the removal off the riving knife and guard rendering the machine dangerous

if you rip them down to 22mm they will have many machine marks miss alined saw marks when flipping the planks will also be thinner when ever you get a twist or bow

I thought of that, and dont want to remove any safty features. so

I plan to cut the timbers into 2 meters (or closest due to joist configuration)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ferm-Tabl...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item3f0ba1f437
Use a table top saw like this and extend the table. The timber will rest on the table top then. (if you understand what I mean)

When I install them, I will stagger theboards.
 
you need a saw with a bit more capacity than 73mm '76mm is half so you will finnish with 6mm uncut

regardless off what saw you choose you will have to remove the riving knife and guard

yes 2m sections and 3 rollers would be fine with reservations i mentioned above

cutting into 2 on a curved bit off wood can reduce the problem off the curve by 75%
 
you need a saw with a bit more capacity than 73mm '76mm is half so you will finnish with 6mm uncut

regardless off what saw you choose you will have to remove the riving knife and guard

yes 2m sections and 3 rollers would be fine with reservations i mentioned above

cutting into 2 on a curved bit off wood can reduce the problem off the curve by 75%
I see what you mean now!

The blade cutting depth is different then the total blade size.

Would independant wood yards offer a cutting service?
What kind of fees would I be charged?
 
If you want to, you can always rout grooves in both edges to suit and insert plywood tongues. It'll help keep the floor boards even. Nice one reusing old timber though. It's always the best. Well seasoned.
 
If you want to, you can always rout grooves in both edges to suit and insert plywood tongues. It'll help keep the floor boards even. Nice one reusing old timber though. It's always the best. Well seasoned.
Not a bad idea!

old timber is great.
 

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