Quadrant shower install and plumbing advice

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Hi firstly im new to the forum . Seems to be alot of advice , help and tips around so instead of reading everyones posts thought i would post regarding a few questions regarding our home project .

900 quadrant shower is going to be installed next week .
All wiring is ready .
Now the shower tray is a stone cast one with fret on the underside . No specifications on how to fit and does have these feet. See pic



Is mortar required under the base or just supporting where the feet are or can it just be set into place ?
The floor is being changed and adding 18mm ply though still undecided if to lift the existing boards or lay ontop ?

Quite heavy and solid. Brand new and a bargain buy for a winning bid of £1 lol with waste although i think im going to change for a mcalpine one

Luckily the joists are running the correct way . Unfortunatly the bath and sink waste are well above floor level so planning on making new hole. Bath is being removed . Sink in the corner where bath is and shower where the sink is . Again see pics :) definetly needs a update :)


Luckily as said the joists run the length of the shower. Unluckily the waste is in the back corner of the shower but will work that out

Planning to take the cold feed from sink. Reroute to the left a little and upto where shower is to be located. To which im planning to install a small service elbow to the shower yes ?
Then the plan is to batton the wall which will also have the electric feed and water supply behing then aquapanel that wall then once shower tray / floor is in place. Tank the walls for the enclosure. These are solid walls but just to make sure

This is the feed for the cold i was planning to take then blank off or even find exacty where it comes from and switch out a t piece for a straight coupling and get rid of the hot pipe all together ?
The cold will be diverted left under floor then up the wall to shower


Next the plan is to install a sink at the tap end of the bath ( not on same wall as window ) wh have a new pedastal sink to fit . The water hot and cold we are planning on taking from the bath but this is where im trying to figure out the easiest options
This is the existing plumbing for the bath ( boiler is directly below ) ( not a combi )


Hot is the left 22mm .
Best way of doing this . None of these go to the existing sink. Just to the bath then to the wall and down to the kitchen .

Idea ond trace it back a little . Cut. Fit a 22mm to 15mm reducer and join new 15mm pipe to the existing 15mm pipe after the hot tap t piece and dont use that hot for the sink .... go back to shower install and use the hot from there , rerouted down the wall / underfloor to the pedastal sink

Or

Do i cap off the hot 22mm ? T into the 15mm further along where it reduces and use that and use that ?

Or for both instalations . T off the pipes for the shower install where current sink is and use same pipes for sink and shower ? As only one will be used at any one time sink or shower ?

Or take the bath feed . Take it to the sink and then the cold to the shower

Decisions lol

Planning on using T piece for shower waste as it passes below the new sink pedastal and just have the one waste for both

Ohh and the floor im planning to do in sections . Shower first . Draw round shower onto the ply and cut . Put into place . Plumb shower . Bring in the rest of the board and should fit perfectly along side the cut out


Ok hope you can work out and understand everything im going on about :)

Advice / help / tips / what to do / dont do much apreciated

Thanks

Dave

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Ok hope you can work out and understand everything im going on about :)

Well to be honest, you haven't made it easy!

1) That doesn't look like a stone cast tray
2) You will need the legs (I can't make out if you have them or not!)
3) Mortar base not required for leg supported trays
4) You don't have sinks in bathrooms - you have basins (sink waste 40mm/basin waste 32mm)
5) If you can avoid combining the shower waste with other appliances then do so (shared wastes are not a good idea for a number of reasons)
6) If you are cutting supply pipework and it will be redundant then trace back as far as possible and cap off close to the supply (to avoid dead-legs)
7) You post suggest that you are installing an electrically heated shower - this needs to be fed from mains cold supply.
8) 18mm (WBP) ply is a good choice for flooring - make sure all board edges are supported on existing joists.

edit: Looking at those feet I'm surprised that there are only 4 in the centre of the tray - look like poor weight distribution.
 
Hi thanks for the reply
The tray is a stone resin one
http://www.buildingsupplieshub.com/solid-surface-artificial-marble-stone-resin-shower-tray-10011923
Delicacy LC1091


Cold supply we were planning of taking from thae basin there now or from the bath feed

Depends which will be easier realy as bath and current basin on the same wall

Rather than capping . Was planning to change any t inserts to just joins and do away with redundant pipes.

The ply will be on the edges of the joists . :)

Looking for as easy way as possible realy

Bath is going completly .. 5 of us in the house and water bills are huge so decided on a shower and remove a bath

Wastefor the shower i was thinking will be passing under the basin and out the wall so if can join in the basin waste . Means one exit .

Only shower or basin used at any one time wont be both ;)
 
I'm still what sure what questions you're asking!

I stand corrected on the stone resin tray (assuming you trust the Chinese supplier!).

Re the cold feed - if you are installing an electrically heated shower (which your post suggests) then you need a mains cold supply - is the supply to either your bath or basin cold mains?
 
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Second thought - if you have existing hot & cold supplies why are you moving to an electrically heated shower (assuming that you are)?
 
Wife wants an electric shower . So bought a new one the other week .
Actually though the mains supply would be one going to the bath with the 22m pipe.. supply shut off is directly below the bathroom and the routes the pipes take. Well the bath taps / supply anyhow :)

Plenty of pressure from the taps

Advice realy is

Am i going about things the wrong way ?
Is there easier ways ?
 
Wife wants an electric shower . So bought a new one the other week .
Actually though the mains supply would be one going to the bath with the 22m pipe.. supply shut off is directly below the bathroom and the routes the pipes take

Plenty of pressure from the taps

Advice realy is

Am i going about things the wrong way ?
Is there easier ways ?
 
In all fairness i did suggest one with a pump but she wanted to go for the electric option . Never realy looked into it. With the supplys would it have been easier ?. Electric shower is what she wanted

Plus we have one of our kids with aspergers which we thought also a electric select temp type shower would be easier for him .

Hopefully looking to have everything within 4 days ... leaving just the rest of the tiling and floor to sort out once shower is installed and enclosure .. luckily my wifes mum is 2 mins walk down the road :)


Erm how i know which are mains feed ? As said the both have great pressure
 
If you have existing H&C supplies then using an electric shower is a dreadful idea! Without a high load shower (in terms of electrics usage) the output temperature , especially in winter, will be warm at best. The cost of using electricity to heat water is significantly higher than gas (assuming you have a gas boiler heating your domestic water).

A better solution would be a thermostatic mixer shower

To check if mains fed - close the main stopcock (the cold water at the kitchen sink should be dead) and see what effect that has on your bathroom basin & bath.
 
Hi . Our water has to be heated prior to use.not a instant hot water combi boiler though is fairly new around 5 years . Was fitted before i met my wife .were in maidstone im originally from cumbria
Tank in loft and a tank in a airing cupboard. Be nice to have instant hot water for shower rather than wait for it to heat up .

Have all the install options in my head and tried to explain best i could in first post .
Maybe these can be made simpler

Thermostatic mixer would of been easier i suppose .. if her in doors changes her mind though doubtfull as she likes the idea of instant hot ...

Either way gotta be better on the water bills with 5 baths of water a day
 
So you have a traditional hot water cylinder with supplies through to where you want to install a shower and you a planning to install an electric shower - politely inform 'her indoors' that she is barking mad!

Which shower have you bought? (or just the kW rating will do.)

You are aware that the shower will need a new circuit running back to the consumer unit and, depending on what the arrangements at the consumer unit are, may require need an RCD adding assuming that the unit has capacity to add a new circuit and isn't fitted with RCD protection at the moment.
 
Tank in loft and a tank in a airing cupboard. Be nice to have instant hot water for shower rather than wait for it to heat up

Assuming that you have hot water in the cylinder I don't get the "wait for it to heat up" comment. Set the controls for the DHW at the boiler/controller to be on an hour before you get up and there's a whole cylinder of hot water ready for you.
 
Fitting a quadrant shower, allow approx 10mm tile overlap on to tray. Otherwise curved shower screen/door may not fit within base circumference.

If you have yet to purchase the screen/door, do not fix quadrant in position, + tiling, until you have read all fixing instructions. If you have a sliding door type, life will be a tad easier.

Brownie points for the McAlpine waste!

I agree with Newboy - really doesnt look substantial enough for a stone/resin tray. Would suggest you need far more legs to distribute load.

Don't let your cheap tray get in the way of what you want to do. Be prepared to sling it and buy quality if it starts to get in the way of a class installation.

Good luck!
 
Sorry to pour more water on your fireworks but back to the tray.

There is no upstand on the tray - means the tiles will run down to the tray surface and you will be totally dependent on the silicone bead to provide a seal between the wall (tiles) and the tray. This isn't a problem providing that there is no movement (and looking at the support arrangements for the tray, that would seem unlikely).

If you do fit the tray then something like this may help getting a watertight seal
http://www.bellseal.com/
https://www.showersealuk.com/aquastrap-showersealuk
 
Thanks for replys :)

Shower is a triton 9.5 kw

Cable is fed through. What a pain that was but do have a direct route almost to the consumer unit .. consumer to pull switch to shower . About 6m to switch so under 8m of 10mm cable over all with very little bending of the cable

Once install starts .
Batton wall
Have pipe for water and electric cable clipped to the wall
Cover with aqua panel


Install a angled small isolation valve that comes from pipe directly to the shower for easy access and shut off if needed ( through the panel )

Install floor ply .

As said i did plan on drawing round the tray onto the ply. expand that a inch or so or to the next joist for stability . Cut that out and install shower onto the base along with the waste. That way once complete the ply i cut out will fit perfect with the cut out and easier to make sure all plumbing is ok before covering over the rest. Only a small bathroom

Tank the area

Tile

Install enclosure which is a aqualux 900 x 900 enclosure

Install the pedastall and basin along with the rest of the floor

Tile rest of bathroom :)
 

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