Query regarding New Cooker Installation

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Monmouthshire
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United Kingdom
I have recently got a new cooker which i thought i'd be able to slot straight in in place of the old one, however, the old one ran off of a plug and my new one is not supplied with a plug although it comes with wires.....is it OK to stick a plug on it or do i need a cooker switch box thingy?
 
My simple maths says no at 3200w/240v=13.34A. However my oven is rated at 3090w at 230v so 3090w/230v=13.44A and it clearly states in the MI's that it may be fitted with a 13a plug top. Don't figure. I think the usual route is to follow the MI's to the letter.
However I am a diyer so an electrician on here will be able to advise better.
 
is it a single or double oven?

its just unusual for the ratings on a single oven to be on or around 13amps.

i would deffo not be wiring it with a 13amp plug. 3kw is the max for short bursts.. ie kettles.

also calculations need to be on 230v.
 
Sorry might have confuse the issue stating my oven at 230v and the op's oven at 240v. Just wanted to show that if it was over 13A if rated at 240v it would be even more over if the oven is rated at 230v (restive load designed for 230v). in fact if the oven is rated at 3200w at 230V then the currant draw may be as high as 13.91A if like mine the supply voltage is 240v. Just out of interest xr4x4 in this situation what takes precedence the MI's or the current wiring regs. Because in my case 13.44A at 230v is more than the 13A plug top rating.
PS mine is a single oven but with the pyro cleaning.
 
Wiring regulations take precedence as they are an act of law while the manufacturers instructions are what they recommend and are usually generic.

I have seen too many plugs on 2kw fan heaters melt or show burn marks around the neutral so would not trust a 3kw oven on a plug (check to see how warm a fan heater plug gets after it has been running for a while)
 
Hello.
Cooker circuits in domestic properties are can have a diversity factor taken into consideration. ( This assumes that the 'Full Demand' of the appliance will not be of long enough duration so as to cause the circuit to overload, pushing this factor could lead to many an electrician getting calls on X-Mas morning :lol: )
As I have just been doing some calcs here are the 'factor' details.
This is for domestics.

The first 10A of the 'Full Load' + 30% of the remainder + 5A if the 'isolator' has a socket outlet incorporated. :wink:

Your cooker will have a 'factored' rating of @12A. :? Ok ??
If your cooker 'isolator' has a socket outlet you're on 17A. Not Ok...



Diversity 'factoring' is not something I see 'eye to eye' with the Regs about, I think they seem to de-rate the appliances too much,but who am I to question those 'above' me !.

Regards
Ed.
 
Diversity can only count if the cooker is not a single built in oven unit.

Judging by the fact that the 'cooker' is replacing one with a 13A plug I would assume it was a single built in oven as opposed to a slot in cooker with hob and grill etc.
 

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