Question about timber cladding on a shed

[Paul348]

Wonder if i can get some advice please.
I have built a new shed using 100x50 stud work on 400 centres and i am about the start the cladding stage and this is where i am unsure.

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• Paul348
• 31 May 2012
• 1

My original plan was to
1: staple a breathable membrane on the studs and then fix the cladding onto the studs, then 80mm of celotex on the inside followed by 12mm of ply wood.
Now reading the cladding guide “Thermo Wood” they say i should
2: Fit ply to the outside first to act as a “weather brake” then fix 20 mm batons to this and then fix the cladding to the batons. This leaves a 20mm air gap between the back face of the cladding and the ply wood.
What is the correct way? The guide i think is meant for the USA market where they use a lot of cladding on their houses.

Any advise would be helpful

 

[^woody^]

A ply or OSB sheathing to the external, helps to stiffen the whole frame. For your purpose, you could do without it

You should have air gap behind the cladding though, so you should fix the cladding onto laths to keep a gap between the membrane

 

[Paul348]

Thanks Woody for the Reply,
Not too keen on OSG don’t have any reason to dislike it but like working with ply better.

What thickness ply would you recommend? 12mm or 9 mm or thicker? and would normal sheeting ply be ok or would i have to go for WPB type ply

 

[^woody^]

You could use 9mm

Normal sheathing ply tends to bend all over the place and the edges fray easily, so use an exterior grade or standard WBP. No need for expensive marine ply or anything like that

 

[hammerswinger]

That's some shed, wish I had that space.

 

[exer]

As you have gone to all the trouble of making a nice job so far I would myself use some decent T&G which would also last a lot longer and look better at not much extra cost than it would if you used plywood.

 

[catlad]

I think he is doing, the ply is his sheathing behind his cladding.

 

[Paul348]

You could use 9mm

Normal sheathing ply tends to bend all over the place and the edges fray easily, so use an exterior grade or standard WBP. No need for expensive marine ply or anything like that

Again thanks Woody for your help, do i still use the breathable membrane? if so where
Before i fix the ply to the studs ?

hammerswinger: That's some shed, wish I had that space.

Thanks believe it or not there used to be a green house there and i was going to knock the wall down but i had a flash of inspiration and thought i could use the wall and make a lean to shed.

exer:As you have gone to all the trouble of making a nice job so far I would myself use some decent T&G which would also last a lot longer and look better at not much extra cost than it would if you used plywood.

As Catlad has said, the ply wood is only acting as a weather break; i am putting cladding over the top of the plywood.

 

[Norcon]

Why didn't you build the wall right up the full height?
A lot more durable!

 

[Paul348]

Why didn't you build the wall right up the full height?
A lot more durable!

I live quite rural so wanted to keep it “in keeping” with the other out buildings, also i quite like the part brick part timber look

 

[Norcon]

A masonary wall would be my first option. Very low maintainance!
Then working with what you have a Kingspan insulated composite panel except fixed to their Z steel section. Again low maintainance.

Then the timber option last.

 

[^woody^]

Why didn't you build the wall right up the full height?
A lot more durable!

And in concrete no doubt

 

[^woody^]

Again thanks Woody for your help, do i still use the breathable membrane? if so where

The sheathing ply goes on the frame, then staple or nail the membrane, then fix the laths, then clad.

Do you know about the drip details at the bottom and above the openings, they are quite important.

Are the windows that low for a reason - it looks like the heads wont line up with the door frame head?

It should look good though, can you post an image when its all done

 

[Norcon]

Yes indeed. Concrete doesn't burn down.
And of course is extreme low maintainance and extremely tough.

 

[catlad]

The breather membrane will be a second defence against the rain, if you chose to use it, it should not touch the ply or the cladding, so batons on the ply then membrane then batons then cladding.