Rad Brackets

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Replacing rad with new one and new brackets. Is there a secret to locating the brackets, so rad actually rests on them, as instructions assume you just fit them. Place brackets on back of rad, but how do you line up the holes, when you cant see them, from the front. Me not practical.
 
If you're not a diyer, then I'm not sure you're going to be up to the job. Assume that the new rad has the bracket plates at different spacings and heights to the one you are removing (which s*ds law says they will be) then you are going to have to do a bit of measuring and drilling to mount the new brackets to the wall, then hang the rad to the new brackets.

Its not a hard job, just basic diy really - but how much do you feel comfortable doing.

Not trying to be unhelpful, but you do state that you're not up to much diy wise. Post back your thoughts and maybe others will pitch in with practical positioning and measuring advice.

Hope I've got the ball rolling for your post. Good luck.
 
There's usually a couple of inches of leeway sideways, as the brackets slide along the mountings, but you will have to get the height right.

Measure the distance between centres of the mountings, and distance from the ends of the rads, then transfer the measurements to the wall.

Hook a bracket on the mounting, and measure height from inlet centre to bracket. Mark the same distance up from pipe centres on the wall.

Use a pencil and spirit level/straight edge to extend your lines, and you have marked out the bracket positions. line up bracket with pencil lines and mark the screw holes.
 
get 4darts chuck um at the wall, that gives ya the position of the holes ya need to drill - slap ya brackets on n ya sorted!

or ya could use a tape measure and a spirit level :roll:
 
Thanks Tickly T, will give it a go at weekend. cant understand why these companies dont't offer a cardboard template with packing, too simple, really. My worry is fitting the brackets, then finding out the rad is not aligned vertically to valves, do have some play in valves up and down (wooden floor) so should be OK. The rad has packing screws in each of teh 4 outlets, how do you get these out, teh largest philips keeps slipping, is a special tool needed ?
 
I'm replacing my rads at the moment. I place the rad in the position up against the wall but sitting on the floor. Then lean the rad down agaisnt me, and using a spirit level placed on the wall, line up the centre of the bars on the rad. With the spirit level vertical I draw a pencil line up the wall. Repeat this for the other bracket.

Most new rads will state the height from the skirting board to fit the bracket. I then place the bracket up against the line on the wall, so the top is at this height, and then mark the holes on the wall. I then drill and fix the first bracket. Fitting the second is simple, just line the edge of the bracket up with the other line you made and use the level to get the height. Once done mark the holes and fix.

Then simply hang the rad - job done !
 
Kit the family out before you start the job.

436255884.jpg


:lol:
 
Most new rads will state the height from the skirting board to fit the bracket. I then place the bracket up against the line on the wall, so the top is at this height, and then mark the holes on the wall. I then drill and fix the first bracket. Fitting the second is simple, just line the edge of the bracket up with the other line you made and use the level to get the height. Once done mark the holes and fix.

Then simply hang the rad - job done !

how can you use the skirting board as a guide if the pipes are already in place.
you need to use the existing radiator valve centres then measure from there.
 
Sorry miss-read the post, thought he was installing a new rad not replacing an old one !

I was referring to that fact that most new rads (like the quinn ones I'm installing) provide a measurement from the skirtingboard to provide a uniform 2" gap between the base of the rad and top of skirting.
 
...... The rad has packing screws in each of teh 4 outlets, how do you get these out, teh largest philips keeps slipping, is a special tool needed ?

The special tool required for this job is a 'Brummagem Screwdriver'.
They are just plastic plugs, so a flat bladed screwdriver (about a 1/2" wide blade) or the old wood chisel everybody has just for opening paint tins etc. knocked into the plug usually gets 'em out OK. Sometimes they are stuck in with paint (they are only put in there to keep the paint out of the threads).

IIRC last time I uncrewed one with a 20 pence piece gripped in a pair of pliers
 
what a great site for tips, straight from the horses mouth and 100 times better than B&Q man
 

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