radiator does not want to empty.

Bung the system dont no what you mean,
I only want to move the rad to do a 30min job

thats why i would bung the system rather than drain it.
you could be there another day filling and getting airlocks out.

bung the system is where you block the vent pipe and feed pipe.
so when you start to drain the system you only get a cup or two of water out and its stops a the bungs have created a vaccum.

do you know what size allen key it that will fit the drain plug as the look like they have not been touched in years , is it more likely to metric or imperial.
they are useally a square rather than a allen key.
If i have a dodgy valve that is not shutting is more likely to be the lockshield as i can fully tighten and close the manual valve with a spanner.

could be any one of them.
 
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Can't believe all the birdbrained advice you are getting here.

You want to take the rad off to do a 30 minute job?
You have turned the valves off yet you say the radiator is still draining.

Well take the radiator off the wall and you will then be able to see which valve is not closing properly.Then you can cap it or just leave a small container under it to catch the drips.

Do your 30 minute job and put it back.
 
How do i take the radiator of the wall if i cannot drain it. If i undo the valves which i need to do to take the rad of i will get still have the problem of water coming out.
 
How do i take the radiator of the wall if i cannot drain it.

Use your imagination.

Plumbing is not a discipline where you will always stay dry or clean.

Just put some towels down,get it off the wall and turn it upside down or if it is REALLY full of water empty the contents into a bucket,bog ,bath. This should take you about 30 seconds.
If your valves are letting water through put some containers under them or cap them using the appropriate fitting. They will only be emitting a dribble at most.Stop worrying.

But if you are nervous about doing the job ,you should get a professional in.
 
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Its a question of confidence and getting a bit of info before i start the job. I am just looking for the correct procedure for a amatuer, proffesionals can and will do it in a fraction of the time . This as been a major project for me and due to advise from this forum i am 95% from completing the job. I will do it and then look back and say that was easy. Plumbers repair the jobs your husband fixed. No doubt i will be back soon with another problem . But in the meantime i will continue to seek advise.
 
Its easy for us to say dont worry but your the one left holding the biucket. , try opening and closing the valves a few times as somtimes its just a bit of sh@te on valve face that is causing it to pass.
Also sometimes it is not just a dribble it can be quite a flow.

If in doubt best just drain it down ,far better as a diyer to have hassle getting air out afterwards than phoning around findin a plasterer to put new ceiling up
 
if you tie up the ball valve first, then at least you are limiting the amount of water that come out. Otherwise the water main will be filling it up as fast as you drain it.

Close all the other radiators at both ends, and the most water that can come out is the contents of that one rad and the contents of the Feed & Expansion tank. A couple of buckets maybe. When it stop coming out you can remove the radiator, and then try opening one of the rad valves to see what more comes out (probably a bit from the pipes) into your emulsion tray or basin, before you replace the faulty valve.

BTW it can be a good idea to fit a thermostatic radiator valve at one end as the labour is the same, provided you have enough slack in the pipes to take up any difference in size. pipes that come up through wooden floors are more likely to have a bit of slack than ones set in concrete.

If the rad you are working on is a ground floor one you can consider fitting a lockshield with drain-off, it may help you drain next time you want to.

Look at the rubber washer on the drain cock when you have finished draining (the plug will unscrew) as it may be perished and this is a good time to replace it to avoid future leaks.
 
Just done that, and i now have the radiator off. I am going to take the two valves off and take them to plumbase to make sure i have the correct ones . There seems to be a adapter that goes from 10mm to 15mm. I am also going to get some inhibitor . Thanks
 

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