radiator does not want to empty.

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Hi, i have a small radiator in the bathroom that i want to drain and remove. I have turned the maual control valve off and turned the lockshield valve to off which took 3 turns , however after aprox 4/5 pints it is still coming out . The radiator is 24inchx19inch. Also when the system is on hot water only the radiator in the bathroom also gets warm . The water that is draining apears to be lukewarm and not cold . Could anyone please help as what the problem could be . I do not need to remove the radiator but if i do the end job would look so much better . Thanks
 
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if you have shut both valves have you opened the air vent ?
let air in water will come out.
providing the valves are shutting fully.
 
Sounds like one or both the valves are done mate!!
Just because they turn to the off position does not mean they are working internally (dont mean to sound rude it just does not type very well).
Why not drain the full system instead put some cleanser through it and then some inhibiter whilst you have it off the wall and do what you need to do with the rad?
Also buy to new valves whilst its drained down!!
 
Whats the procedure for draining the full system.
 
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Turn off boiler. If you've a FE tank, tie up the ball valve; if combi then do nothing since will not refill automatically.

If you intend to partially empty the system, close all rad valves and drainoff system from lowest point. If you want to drain rads as well, then make sure they are turned off and drainoff as said, then open each bleed valve from the rads (starting at top of house) to let air in.
 
tie up the ball valve or isolate the mains supply to the float valve
and open the lowest draincock basically.
 
Find a rad on the bottom floor with a drain off point (Little nipple looking thing with a fixture for a hose) and there should be one on every drop from above.
Stick your hose on the drain off/offs and open the valve via the square pin on it.
Go back up stairs and open the rads via their bleeding valve (You should hear air coming out) and leave for ten mins or so or until hose runs dry then open downstairs in the same way leaving the radiator with the hose attached till last.
Full system should now be bled but you must reinstate inhibiter at least before refilling.
 
Seem to have a rough idea through the info, however if the bathroom rad as a dodgy valve which it seems to have ,is the procedure the same. I would have to change both valves is it just a straight forward lockshield valve and a valve with a control on.
 
I have found a radiator downstairs that is near to the front door with a drain plug that looks like the type you have on a car sump. looks like a 10mm allen key . If i lock of the cistern ballcock which i have found in the attic and open the drain plug with a hose pipe leading outside ,would this be the way to do it. Would it then be a case of putting the inhibitor in the cistern then letting the system fill up again . Thanks
 
Hi, yes bath finished and fully sealed. I now have the shower pipe feed hidden and realy glad i did as it makes a massive difference. I have just fitted a new window board and downlight , i have the vanity unit ready and wating to be fitted , cant do that untill panels on the other wall are fitted. Was about to do that tonight untill i found radiator would not empty.two steps forward and one back at the moment . on the radiator again how much water would the system actually hold .
 
I am going to need a new lockshield valve and a manual valve , is it just a case of going to my local screwfix /plumbers merchants were i should be able to pick them up. I presume if i tell them the type of system they will give me the apropriate valves. Thanks
 
no good telling them they will just think your from out of space.

buy two rad valves they are both the same but with a different cap on.
they come with both caps.

you can always bung the system to change them.
 
Bung the system dont no what you mean, do you know what size allen key it that will fit the drain plug as the look like they have not been touched in years , is it more likely to metric or imperial. If i have a dodgy valve that is not shutting is more likely to be the lockshield as i can fully tighten and close the manual valve with a spanner. I only want to move the rad to do a 30min job.
 
Sorry about all the questions , i can move the plug on the downstairs rad near the door with a spanner,just tried. One as the bleed nipple on do i drain from that one or the other side without . Thank you
 

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