Radiator pipework - how to get a neat finish

Yea im with eaton on that I once started a small site, first fixed clipped pipes to joists noggins etc to make double sure of measurements sure enough chippy had moved pipes to suit his floor, as was proved when floor was lifted to find pipework pulled out of clips
 
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We only have the op's side of things...... We need to know whether the rads were on site at the time of the holes being made in the floor. If they were the plumbers are to blame, no excuse.

Or did the plumbers make a best guess from your sizes of rads that were due to be delivered a week later? And was the flooring guy waiting in the wings waiting for the plumbers?

Laminate floor has made it imposible now to have anything other than ugly bends unless its cut away and re fitted.
 
Who on earth cuts pipes (or cables in an electricians case) to the correct length before something such as plastering or flooring is done?? There should be enough excess pipe left at first fix, in order to be cut down to length after other work is done. It common sense engineering practice...
 
Yes, rads have been on site for months now, so no excuse as far as I can see. But they decided they didn't need to hang them, and would "carefully measure" instead. I now have engineered floorboards glued to a concrete floor, so would be v messy to take them up again.

For info, I asked the flooring guys to allow a small part of the board under the rads to be removable, just in case any future leaks etc. Effectively means there's an option to have the pipes coming up from the centre of the rad (if that makes sense) - if that would make a neater finish?

I've put the ball in their court and said I don't want any noticeable joints, otherwise I won't pay. I'll see what they come back with...

Cheers for all the advice so far - v helpful.
 
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Its the Plumbers fault if they had an opportunity to hang the rads and pipe up before floor was put down, if they use a spring on the pipe and kink it, it will look worse IMO
 
So plumbers thought they could save time by not bothering to hang rads while laying pipes but now have created 10 times the hasle for themselves.

The thought of just guessing when an expensive floor is going down is asking for trouble.

Sounds like they deserve all they get, only excuse for dogleg is if there's a joist in the way and even then rad should be moved along if posible.
 
And how can you guarantee that someone hasn't moved the pipes ie plasters etc, it's alright blaming the plumbers but I've had this where people turn up after and your pipes are nowhere near where you left them, covered in s**t, bent, kicked etc


Glad that doesn't happen to juust me then.

We fitted hundreds of metres of UFH into a big reniovation. Pressure tested, run it up to temperature isoalted and left it ready for the final comission when the job was ready for it.

Went back to do some wiring and got pulled up by the site manager who went ape because I "hadn't tightend the pipes in the manifold".

Turned out one of the other trades had been leaning in against the manifold to drill a hole thourgh the wall. :eek: Pies had been in for 3 weeks under pressure byt that stage. :evil: How the hell was it my fault he pulled on the pipe!?
 
For info, I asked the flooring guys to allow a small part of the board under the rads to be removable, just in case any future leaks etc. Effectively means there's an option to have the pipes coming up from the centre of the rad (if that makes sense) - if that would make a neater finish?

So if I understand that right, all they have to do is pop those panels, move the pipes and get the chippies to cut some fresh panels with holes in the right spot again.

Shouldn't be too bad. Nice bit of foresight on your part OP - wish more people would be that sensible.
 
If the pipes were just too far apart, rad extension bars can be fitted too the rad and then the valve onto them, work really well.. but if the pipes are too far back to the wall then they wont work ...
How about using the extensions to get the width right, and then it should only be a matter of a single bend to get the pipe out far enough from the wall. If the TRVs are fitted with the heads horizontal, then the angled entry won't matter - not sure if you could do that with lockshields (depend on make I guess).

Perhaps the OP should insist they mock up what they propose before he lets them loose on the real pipes - once they'd b***ered those up then it's too late.
 

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