With fan assisted radiators it does not matter too much where mounted, the fan will circulate the air to either cool or heat the room, clearly cooling better high up and heating low down but fitted in the kick space in a kitchen it will still cool.
But unless fan assisted then position does matter.
I have used fan assisted with an old boiler, however not sure how they work with a modulating boiler, with all fan assisted no real problem, and with one odd one again unlikely to be a problem, however they work reverse to standard radiator.
Standard radiator controls water flow with a TRV and the by-pass valve opens as the TRV closes, however the fan assisted radiator does not control water flow, instead it controls fan speed, so colder the room gets as long as water is warm the faster the fan runs.
I fitted one because you can place furniture in front of it without having too much effect on heating, it is an early one fitted around 1980 so not a multi speed fan, just simple on/off.
There are draw backs, noise for one, not loud, but you can hear the fan, today seems they are better, but not sure I would want one in a bedroom? Have you ever sleep in a room with air conditioning? It took a long time to get use to noise as it cuts in.
Also room needs to be well insulated, back in the 1970's pre double glazing I had a house with hot air central heating, because it circulates the air, it blows air past all surfaces, so a cold window cools air down so causes high fuel bills.
So I would not hesitate fitting a Myson into the kick space in the kitchen, and if I decided to have air conditioning in the house again the Myson ability to heat and cool yes I would fit Mysons, but in the bedroom not so sure. The iVector MkII seems to be the bees knees, however controls are on the top, so mounting so high would be hard to reach, and the kick space will need some where to mount it, they are designed to fit in the kitchen cupboard. Since however they are so much smaller, maybe you could fit a Myson iVector at standard height.
As to copper pipes, the Myson needs 15 mm so really no option, I used I think 10 mm micro bore on the old type but note the new iVector says 15 mm minimum, however for the standard type radiator micro bore works well as does plastic.
I also noted both my latter houses, upstairs the main problem was over heating, heat comes up from down stairs, the TRV on radiators mean they only ever get warm upstairs, never really hot except when central heating has been off for a time, down stairs is where most of the heat is delivered, my mother in last years of her live lived only down stairs, heating wise this was a problem, with heating switching off at 10 pm and on again at 6 am upstairs was fine, but down stairs got quite cold, so we needed to just reduce temperature rather than turn it completely off. We had to use eTRV heads so the room temperature varied night to day. Upstairs you could likely get away without a radiator, but you are ground floor, so it will need to run through the night.
You can get skirting board radiators, both with and without fans,
the problem is control, the simple TRV has a problem even with standard radiators as affected by heat from the radiator it is connected to, the eTRV heads do compensate for that heat, and instead or numbers 1 to 6 actually have temperature settings so can set to 20°C however skirting and underfloor heating needs motorised valves of some type and a wall mounted thermostat, theory is great, but you will need deep pockets.
I fitted eTRV heads in mothers old house, and yes they worked well, but after I wished I had fitted a different make that would allow the use of a central hub, in other words hard enough heating a down stairs room as it is, without trying to use discreet heating methods, we fitted electric underfloor heating to wet room, in real terms a failure, without the towel rail on the room is far too cold.
Warning with plastic pipes you must not make them neat, they do expand and contract, so need to be allowed to snake a bit, or the ends will pull out, I used them for air, and at 120 psi they hold well if allowed to snake a bit, but try to make them look neat, and fittings do pull out. My son and I spend a lot of work in wet room with pipes concealed in the wall, however dad got new central heating put in and the plumbers did not like plastic and cut them all off flush to wall and fitted 15 mm copper instead, they also removed hard wiring to thermostat, and connected the power shower to a combi boiler, a right lot of cow boys. Work actually broke the law. Be it electric of water there are good and bad installers, though who are stuck in their ways, and those who move with the times. But neatness costs, be it plumbing or electric neatness costs, so how much are you prepared to pay?
