Raising Loft floor to gain insulation depth and additional strength

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I would like to use loft space for storage, and want to utilise as much space as I can without compromising insulation and the strength of the joists, the span of joist is 24' with a mid support provided by an internal load bearing wall, so joist span is just 12' either side of this central internal wall, and the joists are 4"x2" spaced at 16" interval, supporting ceiling below and a layer of 250mm deep insulation.

My question is, can I lay additional 4" x 2" joists over existing joists and screw them together, at every 16" interval with long screws, so that two 4x2 joists can give an effectively larger depth for extra strength, as well as more depth to not only give me added load bearing strength but effectively give me higher depth for the 200mm ..insulation layer, these additional joists would be self supporting and won't bear hardly any weight on existing joists, though I understand additional weight will ultimately bear on foundations, and I am aware that you can get special floor legs designed to lay a raised floor in lofts so as to not squash insulin layer, but this does not add strength to the floor and increase load bearing capacity.

At some stage in future, I might want to fix Celotex 50mm thick insulation boards under the rafters, and just paint it white to reflect light and nothing elaborate as I am not trying to make a loft room for habitation purpose, but for storage only, there won't be any roof lights, etc, just one lamp holders with a 100watt bulb for lighting up the space when going in to retrieve or store items and belongings.

I am equally aware that as this space may not get natural ventilation, any vapours that may enter loft space from any leaks in the loft hatch may start forming condensation, if this starts happening I may provide some form of ventilation if this becomes a problem, the house is 1930s build.

In short, I want to try and create a space that looks close to a tidy looking room, but it cannot be used as a livable room, just one or two steps better than a dark, drafty loft, but two or three steps less than a livable accommodation.

Finally , please remember I am not making a proper loft conversion, so i hope I will not need to notify BC, any views or suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance

Items that I would want to store are old clothes, still worth keeping, old computers and printers and monitors, old TV sets, radios, VCRs, DVD players, other household clutter, so nothing very heavy or such like, some car spare like 2 front wings, bonnet, boot lid, headlights, rear light clusters for a classic car, and so on, nothing major heavy like engines or gearboxes) and some DIY tools like compound saw, angle grinders, and smaller tools like chisel set, boxes of screws, etc etc things that i have no room for elsewhere in my house which is up to brink, and yes I am a semi hoarder, I don't like to throwing things that I see potential for.
 
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I would think that you'll get deflection and at the very least twist by doing it this way .... I would be inclined to lay one layer of 100mm between the existing and then raw bolt a frame to the gables and drop some new 2x4 in across the opposite direction to the old ones and brace where they intersect.

The drop another layer of insulation inbetween the new joists.

However, shed loads of 2x4, chipboard and power tools etc can all add up to a significant load on the building so I would seek the advice of a structural engineer first.

Personally for the extra expense I would go for a structural floor that could be used as a proper LC in the future ( you might want to sell the house and having a part way conversion is better than a posh loft imho
 
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As far as twisting of the joists is concerned, this could be taken care of by using timber sections (38mm wide) to act as braces, as recommended by BC, at various intervals, if I simply lay additional joists at right angle over existing joists, then the weight of these will have to be born by existing joists, whereas if I lay them on top in the same direction, the weight of additional joists is then self supported at either end and born by the wall plate. both existing and new joist would help reduce deflection.

On top of this if I were to lay cross joists at right angles, then i might as well use 7x2.5" joists (span being 16 foot) and have them supported at side walls thus not adding any additional weight to front and back and the internal party wall and its foundations, that means the front and back foundations would not get overly stressed, I could get special joist hangers that I could bolt into the side walls, which in these houses do not bear much weight, as majority of the load is born by front and rear foundations, only thing with this arrangement is that i would lose useful space by at least 8to 10 inches, which can be a lot.

3rd option is to renew my 41 year old roof, as may be due for a renewal, though it has never leaked, and is still probably solid, only that it looks old and has lot of fern and moss growth on it, tiles have no cracks, never needed any attention in all those years, but I could hire some willing roofing contractor who may redo my roof timber and use old tiles after cleaning fern and moss, and apply latest regulations to timber work, and bring old ceilings down and replace the joists with a new larger size (like 6x2) or even 7x2 to bear loft loading, without the need for RSJ supports. Roof work always involves BC, so all plans etc will be submitted for approval, and before any work commences. I will probably go for this option as more suitable and for peace of mind since I am also doubtful of old roof rafters which look like they could do with new ones.

I don't know how much i could save if I were to reuse my old tiles, have them cleaned and dash them in suitable red paint, if the new tiles cost under a grand then i will go for new, but if the tiles alone cost 2K to 3K then it will be worth reusing them, the main roof has 24 across and 14 tiles from top to bottom each side, that means roughly 700 tiles, and i have no idea what each one costs, if you take each tile for a pound, that is £700 quid i could save, but I am sure they are probably around £2 each.
 
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As far as twisting of the joists is concerned, this could be taken care of by using timber sections (38mm wide) to act as braces, as recommended by BC, at various intervals, if I simply lay additional joists at right angle over existing joists, then the weight of these will have to be born by existing joists, whereas if I lay them on top in the same direction, the weight of additional joists is then self supported at either end and born by the wall plate. both existing and new joist would help reduce deflection.

On top of this if I were to lay cross joists at right angles, then i might as well use 7x2.5" joists (span being 16 foot) and have them supported at side walls thus not adding any additional weight to front and back and the internal party wall and its foundations, that means the front and back foundations would not get overly stressed, I could get special joist hangers that I could bolt into the side walls, which in these houses do not bear much weight, as majority of the load is born by front and rear foundations, only thing with this arrangement is that i would lose useful space by at least 8to 10 inches, which can be a lot.

3rd option is to remove roof as may be due for renewal, though it has never leaked, and is still probably solid, only that it looks old and has lot of fern and moss growth on it, so I could hire some willing roofing contractor who may reuse old tiles after cleaning fern and moss, and redo all my timber work with brand new timber with latest regulations, and bring ceilings down and replace the joists with a new size without the need for RSJ supports. This will involve BC, so all plans etc will be submitted and approved by them before work commences. I don't know how much i could save if I were to reuse my old tiles if the new tiles cost under a grand then i will go for new, but if the tiles alone cost 2K to 3K then it will be worth reusing them, the main roof has 24 across and 14 tiles from top to bottom each side, that means roughly 700 tiles, and i have no idea what each one costs, if you take each for a pound, that is £700 quid i could save, but I am sure they are probably around £2 each.



A roofer will probably charge you a £2 each to take em off .. lol

Why don't you just drop new joists in between the old ones and use a higher performing insulation ?
 
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Yes that could be a better option, so what if I use 6x2 joists and run them at the same centers, that would give me 150mm depth of high performance insulation, the only snag is the ceilings are lath construction which means I will have to scrape away any protruding plaster to lay another joist flush with the old lath surface, which may or may not weaken the ceiling adhesion, I don't know I am confused if this could be done without effecting the lath ceiling below.

Secondly I will also have another problem with 6x2 joists because rafters are resting on another cross plate similar to wall plate but this one runs across on top of the joists and the rafters then meet and join with this cross plate (joist plate) with a bird's mouth cut. So my 6x2 will have to be reduced to 4x2 near the wall ends.

I will also have to fix collar ties as none of my rafters have any, and there is a risk that the roof could slide down if not properly tied one side with the other, each rafter is probably held in place with the ridge board with possibly one nail alone and to me that seems inadequate for concrete roof tiles, though I must admit it hasn't budged in 41 years!
 
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You might be better served to drop two steels in gable to gable then ... You can then hang the new joists from that independently of the existing structure and also support any roof load too.

For all this part way conversion to feasibly add value to your home then a full conversion needs to be looked into for head heights stairs possible position etc ..... Otherwise it's just a posh loft which has different dynamics.

Im part way through my full loft conversion and have had to chip off a few bits of plaster from the laths, no damage to report but mine are in good condition so go carefully.

As for the structure I would seek the advice of a structural engineer, I paid £200 for mine and he saved me a fortune in rsj's by specifying doubled up beams
 
I considered that option of using two or 3 RSJs from gable to gable, one at the ridge level, with collar ties to strengthen, but ruled out as I would lose too much volume at the lower usable end, that would mean reduced height and less head room and usable space. RSJ is easily going to be roughly 150 to anything around 200mm in height and around 18 foot across, and I would then have to use floor joist across them losing even more height, space is the whole point.

but thanks for your valuable ideas. Much appreciated.If you have any more suggestions by all means I am open to consider as I have not made my mind up which route I might take and when, currently I have many things stored in there.
 
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Oh I did, yes i actually saw that video from which you took that picture, yes that would not lose me too much valuable space, so I will make a few enquiries to see who could supply and fit RSJ sif I took that route .

So to round up my options:

1. Add more joists along the existing side by side, can use 6x2 to provide more load bearing and less deflection
2. Add 4x2 on top of existing joists in the same direction, using long 6" screws join top joist to the bottom to reduce deflection and tie spacers to stop twisting and distorting.
3. Or run 7x2 from side to side (between the gables) and support them with wall ties bolted to the side walls.
4. Remove roof tiles and all timber and ceilings, redo all from scratch with new timber but use 7x2 joists
5. Use RSJ, and new joists recessed and supported by infill.

(option 5 is what most people opt out for, and BC also prefers that method) I would prefer method 4 if I can get a decent quote and the fact that I would feel good for having replaced 100 year old timber. If not option 5 would be the ultimate solution and one can then also convert it into a proper loft room in future and BC may not like my option and may not approve it.
 
You still need to assess the headroom etc for potential future conversion.

Get a local conversion company round
 

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