rangemaster dual fuel

[chancer100]

can anyone tell me what I should do, just bought a rangemaster dualfuel cooker and when the sparky tried to connect the cooker the fuse blows straight away, any ideas what might be wrong

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Your sparky is faulty.

Replace him.

 

[ricicle]

Sounds like this "sparky" should be on his holidays.....

 

[Paul_C]

Your sparky is faulty.

Replace him.

But seriously, if he couldn't figure out something that straightforward with a few simple tests, he's not up to the job.

It sounds as though there's most likely a short somewhere, either in the new range itself or in the connecting cable (assuming that the fuse is of the correct value). Does the fuse blow as soon as the power is turned on at the isolating switch, or only when a specific ring/grill/oven is switched on?

 

[chancer100]

I bought the cooker secondhand and it appears the cooker is not as new as stated when I bought it .(what have I DONE} The fuse blows straightaway before i try to turn anything on.I have since spoken to rangemaster and they seem to think that maybe the elements are damp.I can only hope ,They say I might be able to diconnect the earth and avoid it cutting out and then dry out the ovens and stand well back for an hour or so.hmnn not sure?I might be able to just change the elements,I will let you know,This is my first forum conversation ,I thnk its great.thanks for all the responses. Chancer

 

[Paul_C]

So when you say it blows a fuse when turned on, is it actually a fuse blowing, MCB tripping or an RCD which trips?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

what have I DONE

Been lied to.

Tell the person you bought it from that you want your money back?

The fuse blows straightaway before i try to turn anything on.I have since spoken to rangemaster and they seem to think that maybe the elements are damp.

That's quite common with old elements - they develop tiny cracks, and when not used for a while moisture gets in and creates an earth fault which will trip an RCD. Once dried out they are OK.

But if that was the problem it wouldn't cause a trip until you turned it on...

I might be able to just change the elements

Don't do that until:

a) You've decided to keep the cooker.

b) You know that that's the fault.

 

[chancer100]

The cooker has a full short between the live and nuetral , It is connected to the CU via new 10mm T&E cable. All the cabling right to the cooker connections test OK. Any suggestions where to start testing?

 

[Taylortwocities]

Start by looking in the connections box on the back of the cooker.
Usually there are a number of links that are changed to fit the supply type.

Here it is mostly single phase 230V
In foreign parts (if i am allowed to call Europe foreign) there are different supply voltages and multi-phase stuff.

I don't suppose you got given an iinstallation manual?

 

[Alarm]

From the book of words............

Current Operated Earth Leakage Breakers
The combined use of your cooker and other domestic appliances may cause nuisance tripping, so we recommend that the cooker is protected on an individual RCD (Residual Current Device) or RCBO (Residual Current Breaker with Overload).
IF IN DOUBT, PLEASE CONSULT A SUITABLY QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN.

So thats for starters.

http://www.rangemaster.co.uk/media/575830/professional plus 90 dual fuel.pdf

Rest in there. and how to connect it.

Someone point out the thanks button to the OP

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Is it this one: