Ravenheat CSi 85 Boiler Problem - Rooms Not Warm

[Beeflightyear]

I am needing some advice please. We have had the boiler installed in April and just recently have put the heating on as it is getting cold. But the problem that we encounter is the rooms do not get warm, we thought at first it was an issue with the thermostat as we had the thermostat turned up to 25 degrees but it would never get above 16 degrees. After having the thermostat changed, there was no difference. The boiler does switch itself off which are plumber saying is right when it gets up to it maximum temperature, but it does this after about 20 minutes, which surely isn't long enough to warm a room up. If I turn our hot water tap on for a few seconds then turn it off, the boiler will come back on and stay on for about 5 or 10 minutes. The red light has never come on.

We rang our plumber who installed the boiler and he said he had never come across anything like this before, he mentioned that it could be our pipework which is 8mm microbore. I would like to think it isn't this as with our old boiler all the rooms would get really hot and fairly quickly.

I rang Ravenheat to ask some general advice, and they said that the potentiometer needed turning up. Could there be anything else that I could say to our plumber, is there anything else that it could be like the pump (which is set to setting number 1 of 3).

If we have the heating on for a good few hours the rooms do get warm, but this doesn't seem right.

Anyhelp will be most appreciated.

 

[LUNAT]

HI

it sounds like circulation problem.feel flow and return pipes as they exit the boiler are they hot ?what is the pipe size close to the boiler and if reduced what is the distance from the boiler.

 

[gasmick2]

Hi you do not say how many rads are on your system and what have you got the boiler stat turned up to ???
It seems that your plumber does not know much about Ravenheat boilers as they are factory set for the heating at around 52,000 btus
so as there tech dep say the potentiometer requires setting to suite the requirements of your system, ie the total b t u s required to heat the house so get him to look at page 28 section 6-12 and adjust the output with the aid of a manometer 11MB will give max output = or -.
the reason for the heating to opperate like this is so it can be used as a range rated boiler and used in a small house or flat

 

[Beeflightyear]

Hi,

Thanks for the replies. Hopefully this is the information that you need

The pipes that come out of the boiler are very hot to touch, and I believe that they are 22mm, these then go under the floor in the kitchen but I don't know at what point it is reduced to 8mm pipework. Within this pipework is a return valve?? which has a red plastic tip on with what look like measurements, this pipe also gets hot from the start. The white marker is set at 0.5 bar. Does this have any bearing on our problem. Feeling the radiators and the pipework leading into the radiators these are also very hot to touch. When the boiler does switch itself off, the radiators seem to cool down very quickly.

We have 6 radiators in total we have 1 double panel radiator in the lounge and single panel radiators in the other rooms. Our house is a standard 3 bed semi. The boiler stat (if this is the control knob on the boiler), it is set to the maximum. If it is something else then I don't know what it is.

Our previous boiler was a Euro Styx SX20, which as I said used to heat the house up very easily.

 

[gasmick2]

Hi i think yiu will have to try ballancing the system and also turn up the pump to No 2 the red top valve is a bypass valve
if your system worked ok before then it seems its down to a circulation prob, i have a micro bore system myself and they do need ballancing
as i say try turning up the pump for a start and see if that makes any difference if not turn it to max as the resistance on microbore means the pump has to work harder
the old system prob had the pump on 3 anyway

 

[Agile]

Dont fiddle with the boiler pump!

That seems to be an auto bypass valve and may be set to just 0.5 m.

Can you turn it to about 2.0 and see if that helps? Would usually be clockwise.

Before you do anything feel both pipes to a radiator and see if the return, the cooler one, is still reasonably hot? Then repeat after turning the auto bypass.

Tony