RAVENHEAT CSI 85T COMBI BOILER

Peter, just to help us understand your situation, please could you explain why the boiler has not been repaired under the warrantee and who has paid for the replacement boiler.

No normal person would ever pay for a second boiler when the first one is covered by the Ravenheat warrantee.

Tony

Peter, rather that just repeating someones reply to you above without any comment, why dont you reply to the questions I have asked above.

As you know there are wind up merchants who persist in wastying peoples time by making up unlikely situations and refusing to give any proper replies or real details. You seem to be acting like one of those people!

Tony
 
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You have exceeded the recommended flue length by 0.5m ! On most other boilers this is not an issue but because the fan has to drag air through two Heat exchangers; this is quite critical on this model.

I recommend that you increase the flue size to 5 inch.

The 5 inch flue has a straight that must go on before the flue elbow. Unfortunately this may mean having to lower the boiler on the wall depending on how much room you have. It may be necessary to use a
twin flue set up.

Thanks Slugsababy,
You are right, the installation manual states, "Maximum allowable flue length 2.5m.
But directly below that statement it reads,"Maximum No 2x1000mm. flue duct extension used with standard flue."
Standard flue is 1000mm with 2 extensions you have 3m. Confusing?
In the block of 16 flats I have just built, 14 have 3m horizontal flues and they are all ok except this one.
If some or all of the rubber seals 0 60 were missing could this have the effect of reducing the differential between the intake duct and the exhaust duct?
Peter
 
I think part of the discrepancy arises from the flue bend having a resistance of 0.5m. and / or one of the extensions must be cut to 0.5m
Whatever, it is a drawback of this boiler so you could expect to see problems with the others as time goes by.

The thing about the venturi tube connection in reference to the flue direction is a similar sort of thing. A boiler can work for a few months in the wrong position and then suddenly stop. It will not work again until the resrictor ring is moved to a different position. Not always 90º as recommended sometimes 180º.

Missing flue seals are something that could have an effect of reducing differential at the least. I would consider a flue without the flue seals as 'AT RISK'

With doors and windows open and FOR TESTING PURPOSES ONLY you could try removing a length or 2 of flue just to see if the boiler fires. This will at least let you know if it is a flue issue for certain and you can check the integrity at the same time.
 
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I think part of the discrepancy arises from the flue bend having a resistance of 0.5m. and / or one of the extensions must be cut to 0.5m
Whatever, it is a drawback of this boiler so you could expect to see problems with the others as time goes by.

The thing about the venturi tube connection in reference to the flue direction is a similar sort of thing. A boiler can work for a few months in the wrong position and then suddenly stop. It will not work again until the resrictor ring is moved to a different position. Not always 90º as recommended sometimes 180º.

Missing flue seals are something that could have an effect of reducing differential at the least. I would consider a flue without the flue seals as 'AT RISK'

With doors and windows open and FOR TESTING PURPOSES ONLY you could try removing a length or 2 of flue just to see if the boiler fires. This will at least let you know if it is a flue issue for certain and you can check the integrity at the same time.

As I have changed the boiler and the problem has persisted can I safely assume that it is a flue problem? The boiler does fire sometimes but not always.
 

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