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Hi all,
I noticed a bit of damp on my kitchen ceiling, and I've discovered (after wripping up the plywood and tiles in the bathroom) a bit of a leak in amongst the pipework supplying my basin. The bottom line is that most of it looks knackered and replacing - it looks to be coming from the joints.
To start off with, we're installing a new full pedestal basin... after all pipework if in good order.
I've never done any pipework related plumbing before, however i am pretty competent in most DIY, so i am going to give it a go.
Am i right in saying that if i turn off the stop cock under the sink, and turn on all taps in the house, the water will be fully drained from the pipes, so i can get to work on cutting? Do i need to turn my boiler off?
My question is, as i am going to replace the whole lot of pipework (that can be seen in the pictures below) should i make the cuts furthest away from the joints, or as close as i can?
I am going to pretty much copy the plumbing that has already been done - but using new pipe and fitting (unless anyone can suggest an alternative, as there seems to be a lot of pipework going on).
Secondly, do most people still use the soldering method, or can i just use push fit connectors for all of the joints? There are a few T joints, a few 90 degree corners, and a couple of straight fit connectors. If so, i'll need to get hold of a soldering torch and solder etc.
Also, there are two pipes that have a curve in (see pics) - how do i get the curve in the pipe? do i simply heat it and bend it?
Any related advice is appreciated.
Please see the pics for an understanding of whats going on.
General view of all pipework:
Dodgy pipework: - with sponges to stop pipes touching?
The two supply pipes on left provide HOT water. The two on right are COLD water.
One of the culprits for the leak
many thanks
Mark
I noticed a bit of damp on my kitchen ceiling, and I've discovered (after wripping up the plywood and tiles in the bathroom) a bit of a leak in amongst the pipework supplying my basin. The bottom line is that most of it looks knackered and replacing - it looks to be coming from the joints.
To start off with, we're installing a new full pedestal basin... after all pipework if in good order.
I've never done any pipework related plumbing before, however i am pretty competent in most DIY, so i am going to give it a go.
Am i right in saying that if i turn off the stop cock under the sink, and turn on all taps in the house, the water will be fully drained from the pipes, so i can get to work on cutting? Do i need to turn my boiler off?
My question is, as i am going to replace the whole lot of pipework (that can be seen in the pictures below) should i make the cuts furthest away from the joints, or as close as i can?
I am going to pretty much copy the plumbing that has already been done - but using new pipe and fitting (unless anyone can suggest an alternative, as there seems to be a lot of pipework going on).
Secondly, do most people still use the soldering method, or can i just use push fit connectors for all of the joints? There are a few T joints, a few 90 degree corners, and a couple of straight fit connectors. If so, i'll need to get hold of a soldering torch and solder etc.
Also, there are two pipes that have a curve in (see pics) - how do i get the curve in the pipe? do i simply heat it and bend it?
Any related advice is appreciated.
Please see the pics for an understanding of whats going on.
General view of all pipework:
Dodgy pipework: - with sponges to stop pipes touching?
The two supply pipes on left provide HOT water. The two on right are COLD water.
One of the culprits for the leak
Mark
Last edited: