Re-sighting valiant 418 to Gable end in loft

[unclefewst]

A bit of advice guys please, about 3 years ago I replaced my old Glowworm fuelsaver MKII that I installed in 1986 (in the days when you could) previously worked in a local shipyard in metal work, always around the plumbers etc. I had it replaced with a Valiant 418 eco tec boiler, also at the time I uprated the old cold water tanks/feed tanks in the loft and had installed by my plumber colleague from Shipyard says, to a pressurised hot water cylinder (wonderful). however the glow worm was noticeably slimmer than the valiant, in that it did not protrude from the wall as far as the valiant does, (I have a small kitchen ) the condensate drain is discharged into the soil and vent pipe which comes down to the left hand side of the boiler, by way of a saddle fitting onto the soil pipe and a non return valve on the condensate drain under the boiler. I have good pressure on my system and it never drops pressure, or for that matter needs pressing up, my question is this, re site the boiler to the gable end, run the 3/4 inch plastic condensate drain through the loft with a suitable fall, to pick up the vent pipe in the loft which is there.
So basically it is now a fully pressurised system with no feed tanks whasoever in the loft

 

[cross thread]

Yes it can be re sited if all installation guidelines are followed ,many boilers are in the lofts

 

[MeldrewsMate]

I would suggest that you increase the condensate drain pipe to, say, 32mm and be sure not to have any sags as it runs across the loft. Support it well and insulate it well.
Consider the use of a trace heating wire in the condensate drain, linked to a frost-stat so that it only consumes power when the loft gets below freezing (which is usually not often in England).

 

[Mottie]

I have my Vaillant 418 Ecotec in the loft on the gable end. Sealed system too. My condensate discharges into my soil stack that was accessible from within the loft. Picture taken after installation but obviously pipes are insulated now!

 

[unclefewst]

I would suggest that you increase the condensate drain pipe to, say, 32mm and be sure not to have any sags as it runs across the loft. Support it well and insulate it well.
Consider the use of a trace heating wire in the condensate drain, linked to a frost-stat so that it only consumes power when the loft gets below freezing (which is usually not often in England).

Very informative Meldrews Mate, many thanks, do you know if there are any regulations for proper loft ladders and a walkway to the boiler, lighting already up there for the guy who will do the annual service, the ladder that I have at the moment I made out of spare hydraulic pipe and welded it all together in my shipyard days, it has served its purpose, but a proper alloy ladder I think is needed now

 

[MeldrewsMate]

There is a British Standard, but if you read it with the same level of attention as you read the letters written on the front of your boiler, it will be of no use.
'I've used [almost] all the letters, Ern, not necessarily in the right order'.

 

[Mottie]

do you know if there are any regulations for proper loft ladders and a walkway to the boiler

When I was getting quotes for my boiler installation (Boiler change actually as one was already there and they were using the existing flue hole), nobody commented about access etc except British Gas. They were okay with loft ladder, lighting and flooring but said that if they got the job, they would want a handrail fitted around loft hatch to stop their installer falling through it! They were also the only ones who wanted to charge their standard fixed fee of £600 on top of the installation price for either scaffolding or a tower to be able fit a trim ring around the flue on the flank wall. The Gas Safe installer who fitted the boiler shinned up a ladder, fitted the trim and was back down in 5 minutes. Oh, and he charged me £600 for the entire install.