Really struggling to fit frameless cabinet hinges. Help?

[uptown47]

Hi all,

I have made a cupboard (see below):

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• uptown47
• 29 Sep 2012
• 1

I want to put a door on it like so:

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• uptown47
• 29 Sep 2012
• 1

I did some research on the net and thought that I needed "Frameless Concealed Hinges".

I bought some and tried fitting them on some gash wood to see if I could get them to work.... (see below)...

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• uptown47
• 29 Sep 2012
• 1

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• uptown47
• 29 Sep 2012
• 1

My problem is that, if I fit the hinge so the door can open, there is a big gap between the door and the frame. If I fit the door flush to the frame (where I would like it) then the door doesn't open as it catches the frame (hopefully you can see what I mean with the above photos).

This is driving me nuts. I think I've fitted the hinge about 12 times now in gash bits of wood trying to get it to work and I'm stuck.

Please help!

Have I got the wrong hinges or am I doing something fundamentally wrong. I would really like the opinions of the experts on this board to steer me in the right direction.

Many thanks for any help you can give me

Cheers

John

 

[gregers]

i think your problem is,the hole needs to be on the door to throw it out,also maybe use 180 degree hinges?
look at 1 of your kitchen doors and try and follow what has been done.
iirc the margin for the hole leaves about 6mm .

 

[foxhole]

Hinges look poor quality , the hole should be in the door and about 3-4mm from edge, the gap between the frame mount hinge section and the edge is usually around 17mm but not sure about those hinges.
The hinges are designed for 18-20mm thick material so if your carcass is thicker the hinge will need to be slightly rebated into the sides.

 

[uptown47]

Thank you both for your replies.

gregors, I'll put the hole in the door when I do it for real. I'm just 'practising' at the moment on some gash wood from the shed.

foxhole, thank you for your post. The wood I'm practising on is 19mm thick, the actual wood is only 18mm so it should be a little bit better.

I did mount the hinge 3-4 mm from the edge originally and the door opened fine but I found that when the "door" (ie my practise piece) was 'shut' then there was a large gap between that and the frame. That's why I moved the hinge at the door side in a bit.

However, what I'm picking up from the 2 replies so far is that I've got the correct hinges and I'm not doing anything particularly wrong?

I'm just wondering whether I can put the door hole 3-4 mm in and then 'adjust' the door position by adjusting the hinge part that is mounted on the inside of the cupboard?

PS. You are absolutely correct that the hinges are cheap. They were £8 for 4 hinges delivered (from Amazon).

Many thanks for your continued help with this, it's much appreciated.

Cheers

John

 

[big-all]

part off the problem is you need to practice with the same material thickness that you are using
otherwise the clearances position off componants will be wrong which will confuse you further

 

[foxhole]

Thank you both for your replies.

gregors, I'll put the hole in the door when I do it for real. I'm just 'practising' at the moment on some gash wood from the shed.

foxhole, thank you for your post. The wood I'm practising on is 19mm thick, the actual wood is only 18mm so it should be a little bit better.

I did mount the hinge 3-4 mm from the edge originally and the door opened fine but I found that when the "door" (ie my practise piece) was 'shut' then there was a large gap between that and the frame. That's why I moved the hinge at the door side in a bit.

However, what I'm picking up from the 2 replies so far is that I've got the correct hinges and I'm not doing anything particularly wrong?

I'm just wondering whether I can put the door hole 3-4 mm in and then 'adjust' the door position by adjusting the hinge part that is mounted on the inside of the cupboard?

PS. You are absolutely correct that the hinges are cheap. They were £8 for 4 hinges delivered (from Amazon).

Many thanks for your continued help with this, it's much appreciated.

Cheers

John

If you use a standard kitchen hinge they adjust [even those you have should adjust] so that you get a 2mm stand off at the hinge side , then a small rubber buffer fits to the other side to prevent the door "slap" of you could invest in self closing hinge or damping device for closing edge.
Or even these.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/self-opening-push-hinge-set-35mm-110/36588

Which require no door handle.

 

[uptown47]

Thanks for the advice. Those "push to open" hinges look the business!

I take your point big all.

Will give it another go based on all the advice here and see how I get on.

Thanks again, you've really helped me out.

Cheers

John