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Rebate cutter set?

Discussion in 'Tools and Materials' started by kaseryn, 6 Mar 2010.

  1. kaseryn

    kaseryn

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  2. chippie244

    chippie244

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    What size is your collet, what are you planning on doing and what is your budget?
     
  3. kaseryn

    kaseryn

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    Good point.. 1/4" collet.. and not likely to be used on a router table.. other than that can't say what it'll get used for, depends what jobs i get and just want to be reasonably kitted out.. don't wanna spend more than £50 really..
     
  4. big-all

    big-all

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    i have the complete trend set had them for about 15 years cost me £46 for the cutter and about the same for the 6 bearings lol with inflation they are about the same now lol

    both toolstation and screwfix used to do the rebate cutter with a half bearing set for about 12-£14

    funny enough i seem to have about 5 half sets and a full set

    i will have a look but i havent seen a half set at sub £15 for ages

    £50 full set
    http://www.rutlands.co.uk/power-too...-cutter-sets/TR7/6-pc-rebating-tct-set---1_2"

    wealden tools 7 bearings about £18 plus cutter
    http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Bearings_17.html

    aha axminster £19 with 4 bearings
    http://www.axminster.co.uk/sessionID/JJD/recno/1/product-Axcaliber-Rebate-Cutter-Set-802211.htm

    another way to get extra steps is to get different size cutters as in iff your set has a 35mm cutter if you use a 32mm cutter your rebate will be 1.5mm smaller so double the variety but just be aware not all bearings will fit all cutters
     
  5. kaseryn

    kaseryn

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    Thanks for those.. unfortunately the full set is 1/2 and i can't see a similar set for 1/4 on their site. prob go for the Axminster one!
     
  6. big-all

    big-all

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    dont worry to much the bigger bearings give you smaller rebates and your more likley to need the bigger rebates
    just get a small diameter router that fits the bearings and you will have most sizes covered
     
  7. kaseryn

    kaseryn

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    Right.. and i guess i could always pack out an edge to reduce a rebate anyway eh?
     
  8. big-all

    big-all

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    usualy easier way like rotate the work through 90% and use the plunge as the width and iff your new to routing clamp several bits together with 2 bits to router on each outer edge
    so iff you have 4 to router you clamp them all side by side router the outside 2 then pick up 2 and transfer accross clamp the other 2 and router again
     
  9. kaseryn

    kaseryn

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    How do you keep yourself straight for work that the fenceis too small/large for,, clamp straigt edges/batons down?
     
  10. big-all

    big-all

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    thats what the "guide" bearings do
    they determin the path off the cutter thats why i suggest getting them
    you can use the fence instead off bearing but that causes problems with all but the larger timbers the timbers need to be thick enough for the fence to clear the worktop and when you get to the end of the work you can get dip where the the first half off the fence comes off the work it can allow sidways movement

    you only need to use a fence for work away from the edges a groove for example

    with a router mat you can mould the edge off 12mm mdf/ply/timber without clamping
     
  11. kaseryn

    kaseryn

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    right right.. but when you talked of turning the work 90deg and plunging the rebate i though that would be done with a different and non bearing cutter?
     
  12. big-all

    big-all

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    sorry i am confusung you lol

    in general in a rebate the depth is the most crutial to accomodate material off a certain thickness 6mm ply for example width not being so important as things will still line up because they are cut to size

    easy way to do the depth for say 6mm ply back
    take an offcut and a bit off wood
    stand the router in its head
    compress the base untill the cutter is around 6mm proud
    lay the offcut on the base next to the cutter but touching the side

    take you offcut off wood and lay accross the ply and cutter carefully apply pressure till you shure the ply face and cutter are level
    lock off the plunge action

    the temptation is to push so hard the cutter slightly indents the wood but thats not a problem as it will only mean the rebates about 1/2 a mm to deep
     
  13. kaseryn

    kaseryn

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    Appreciate the effort.. but i lose you there partway. I can see the sense of flipping the router upside down to get a good depth for the rebate, so wouldn't you, for example.. be best taking the actual material you'll be embedding.. in this case the ply, and laying that on the sole plate next to cutter to get the depth? Thats the measure you want isn't it? ... oh oh! Thinking about it now.. and maybe this is what you meant, ok, ply flush to plate, timber to be rebated on top.. push down till just bites, thats your depth.. ok got it, i think, that what you meant?
     
  14. kaseryn

    kaseryn

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    reading back i can see now that is what you meant, but with all we've said here.. aren't rebate cutters per se a little redundant? How would you then set the height properly using a rebate cutter with bearing? Seems harder than with a straight bit or whatever....
     
  15. big-all

    big-all

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    plunge depth= height

    trust me you dont want to use a fence if you can use a bearing

    example you want to rebate the back off a welsh dresser
    its lying face down on the bench you have a top rail and a bottom rail presenting you with a44mm wide surface and the sides presenting 21mm surface
    to cut with a bearing cutter 2 mins to set up and 2 mins to cut the rebate ALL ROUND 4 min job with 4 small corners to remove

    to set up a cutter and fence for the 2 sides about 5 mins +2mins to cut

    set the fence up for the top and bottom another 2 mins +2 to cut you also gave 2x3" on the bottom rail unrebated becase the fence hits the side panels at the bottom requiring an aditional 5 mins with a chisel to cut the rebates into the corner

    bearing= 4 mins +2 cutting corners = 6mins
    no bearing means 5+2+2+2+5=16 mins
     
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