Please explain what would need to be smashed with a hammer and who is coming to perform these inspections.
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Recessing a light pull switch into plaster coving
- Thread starter Alexnh
- Start date
Please explain what would need to be smashed with a hammer and who is coming to perform these inspections.
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There are enough different size holesaws on the market to get a perfect or near perfect fit for the pull switch.
There shouldn't be any need to fill all round it.
A pull switch with two fixing screws on the front is what you want, not one with a cover that you turn with your hand to loosen.
If you like, you could fit a white besa box between the ceiling and the pull switch, to bring the pull switch lower.
There shouldn't be any need to fill all round it.
A pull switch with two fixing screws on the front is what you want, not one with a cover that you turn with your hand to loosen.
If you like, you could fit a white besa box between the ceiling and the pull switch, to bring the pull switch lower.
Yes and funnily enough I have two screw fixing pull switches. The question now is are you highly qualified enough for that pompous git to listen to?
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The real question is why you are such a know-it-all ass...
Still can't answer my questions despite your high qualifications?
it's funny that because you live on the border and need two sets of qualifications it makes you think you're twice as good as any other electrician...You took an off the shelf piece of advice (don't recess a surface mount) and tried to apply it to s situation where it's not relevant. It's obvious to anyone reading no matter how much you try to save face now by insulting me instead.
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I've recessed pull switches before. A round dry lining box works well as a back box.
You have Schneider (formerly GET) brand switches which have BESA standard fixing centres and will screw straight into the box.
Not sure why you would need a hammer for this?
You have Schneider (formerly GET) brand switches which have BESA standard fixing centres and will screw straight into the box.
Not sure why you would need a hammer for this?
Me neither and I'm not sure @Risteard is coming back to enlighten us the need for smashing things with hammers or who is doing the periodic inspections in private housing in the UK?
I'm not sure partially setting them into the decorative coving as I suggest is really recessing as such, they're still surface mounted with respect to the ceiling itself.
Are you planning on setting the surface back box into the coving but actually attached to the ceiling? Can't see a problem with this apart from how neat you can make it look, but that's purely up to what you're happy with and not an electrical concern!
Exactly. My plan would be to fill the void behind the coving if it is exposed, which depends on the thickness and how far they're inset towards the wall, leaving a smooth curved surface. It will be mostly hidden by the switches anyway.
The wrinkle will be if the coving were not well stuck on at that point and any bits crack or fall off!
The wrinkle will be if the coving were not well stuck on at that point and any bits crack or fall off!
Make a proper job of it and fit a switch on the wall outside the door.
A PIR in the fan, gets around that.
Do you mean the fan is activated only by motion or motion and humidity are required via PIR and humidistat?
My ideal would for it to come on automatically with the shower and have a five minute manual switch for smelly evacuations.
Either would trigger it and then it would remain on for an adjustable period of time.
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Dunt know why you don’t turn door around
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