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Recommendations for easiest way to get curve on L-shaped corner desk

Discussion in 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' started by carl0s, 5 Jun 2018.

  1. carl0s

    carl0s

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    Hi. Can anyone please give me some guidance for how to get this curved corner. I mean in terms of what size stock/worktop to use. I can see various options, with differing looks, ease of actually doing (for a non woodworker like myself), and cost in terms of starting worktop sizes.

    I think I want standard kitchen worktop depth (~600mm), and approx 1m on the short side, and maybe 2m on the long side.

    In order to get the curve though, I am either going to need to cut the whole lot from something much deeper (~900mm seems to be biggest available), or I am going to need to simply make a 'curve front piece' to slot in front of a butted-up 90-degree L from a couple of off cuts of the 600mm stuff, or try to make one big curved piece to go between the standard worktops, out of a big piece again. but.. the big pieces don't seem to come in small offcut sizes. it's 'breakfast bar' size.

    Do you get what I mean? I am trying to CAD this stuff and I'm hopeless, although I've barely started. I was hoping CAD / Inventor would at least make it easy for me to size up stuff, but this Inventor is all about constraints rather than defined dimensions.

    Here's the sort of shape I think I want (green tape and that white band). Any hints / direction? I have all my stuff here for my projects and no desk to put it on. I am thinking of using solid wood tops. The frame isn't a concern - I'm planning to use Kee Klamp style things.

    If you look at the curve, I'd say the centre-point of that curve/circle is about another 600mm out again from the worktop edge, so even starting with 900mm worktops wouldn't be big enough. In fact the more I look at this picture, that I just took, the more I think I should just cut that curve off the end of a second 600mm worktop, and butt it up into the right-angle. It might not look half as good though.. ?

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. foxhole

    foxhole

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    Use 25mm mdf and you can create any curve. ?
     
  4. carl0s

    carl0s

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    Hi. I am not asking how to cut a curve - I have in mind some sort of pivoting router extension arm or something.
    I am asking how best to approach the design / choice of cuts of hard wood tops. 2 piece, 3 piece, big middle piece, little addon-curve piece, etc.
     
  5. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    It's called a trammel arm
    You are probably better off trying to get the curve out of a piece that you can simply butt-up to another square piece. Faffing around with a piece cut at an angle and butting that up with large mitre cuts may not be for you, bearing in mind your limited experience
     
  6. foxhole

    foxhole

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    That’s why I suggested mdf , come 4ft wide so can be cut from one piece.
     
  7. carl0s

    carl0s

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    Thanks. So this sort of plan you think? These are 600mm pieces, with a 1200mm diameter circle cut through the curve piece.

    This program (inventor) is like dragging nails down a chalk board. Seriously my nerves are hurting with the frustration. Time to bin it.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. carl0s

    carl0s

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    but I want a posh wood top!
     
  9. foxhole

    foxhole

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    Veneered mdf
     
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  11. carl0s

    carl0s

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    I'll look into it. Wouldn't I have to create my own veneer after cutting the curved front though? I'll see if there's online companies who will do it all.

    I had another idea for doing it out of 600mm worktops. I think this will be a bit less of an eye-sore in terms of lines/cuts/grain matches:

    [​IMG]

    What do you think? Ignore the extra length. I've just changed the middle part.
     
  12. foxhole

    foxhole

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    You use veneer tape on edges, iron on.
     
  13. carl0s

    carl0s

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    Thanks - yes I read about that. Hmm. Still, the veneered tops usually look like flat cuts of wood don't they? Whereas a solid worktop will be made from finger-jointed, 40mm wide staves. It does look better, doesn't it? I'm also doubting my ability to iron on the edge properly without it being obvious.
    Lastly, I do not want it to flex. I want my frame to come around the sides and rear, but not the front, so it's important that it's stiff. 40mm solid will be stiffer than veneered 26mm MDF ?
    I'm going to have potentially heavy tools and things on there, and just generally want it to be chunky and strong.
     
  14. Notch7

    Notch7

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    The most attractive solution is to do it in 3 sections.

    2 straight lengths, finishing at the start of the curve with a square end cut.

    The corner needs cutting at 45 degrees.

    The grain runs round the corner and looks much better than any other method.

    To create the depth in solid timber worktop, cut out the corner piece and glue on a section to fill in the back corner.

    Worktop express make oak worktops in full length staves if you dont like the end jointed.

    You will struggle with veneered mdf, the slightest error in the joints will result in the worktop not being flush and you cant sand it as you will go through the veneer just like that......
     
  15. carl0s

    carl0s

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    It sounds like you are speaking the language I want to hear, and I have been looking at worktop express for my worktops. If only their online cutting-tool allowed ~600mm radius cuts.
    However I don't fully understand what you're describing. 2 straight lengths, like in both my CAD pictures above? Then do you mean the middle piece is cut at 45 degrees so that the grain is an equal angle to each straight piece, instead of matching one and offending the other?
    I can't picture what you mean about creating the depth and gluing on the section either... Do you mean because I have cut the middle piece at a 45 degree angle, from 600mm stock, I will have a triangle missing at the back which needs filling in?

    I'm happy to pay someone to just do this for me BTW.. I'm not being cheap. I just don't want the hassle of trying to find someone to do it the way I want. Don't suppose you work near Manchester do you?
     
  16. carl0s

    carl0s

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    This is what I've currently arrived at. This is 1900mm on the long side, and then 3 lots of 600mm wide on the narrower side. It keeps all the grains in check, and the size suits me.

    However I'm concerned about the sharp/thin pointy edge. I guess this is where you would mitre the join?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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