Mitred 45 degree join in a worktop and end panel

[Gazzamuffin]

I am building a breakfast bar and would like the oak worktop to wrap around the units forming both the worktop and the end panel.

I have a 3000mm worktop and need to cut 1500mm for the top of the breakfast bar and another 900mm piece to use as an end panel. Where the 2 pieces meet on the corner I would like to mitre the joint rather than have a butt joint as I think this would look a lot nicer.

What I need to know is how to make the 45 degree cut in the worktop that forms the joint and the best way of joining the 2 pieces.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[kjacko]

Well....aside from the fact that you may be asking for trouble, especially if you've not done it before;
I'd probably say a decent quality circular saw with the plate set at the 45° angle. But you need to make sure;
a) the blade is good so you don't rough up your joints
b) you cut in the correct direction/side (upside down, front to back)

Someone better informed will either corroborate or correct me.

Is it pure oak or oak veneer? If pure wood then i would imagine its easier as you could always sand rough edges. But veneer....eek!

Either way, good luck.

Try and grab some waste bits to practice on?

 

[gregers]

rather you then me.

 

[foxhole]

It would look awful and movement in a wood top would leave the joint open.

 

[Gazzamuffin]

I have been advised by the local hire shop that a plunge saw with guide rails should do the job. That should ensure a straight line and a sharp fine blade should mean clean edges.

Now I just need to figure out how to join them as discreetly as possible.

It's a solid oak worktop so I am going to practice on a few pieces of the old worktop and if it looks dreadful I will just go with a but joint.

 

[alan333]

Any chance you could fit standard worktop bolts in somehow? Like these...

http://www.screwfix.com/p/worktop-clamps-150mm-pack-of-10/15295

 

[kjacko]

once mitred and glued, you could use some 'L' brackets, but chisel or router out the profile so they recess?

 

[Dave54]

It would look awful and movement in a wood top would leave the joint open.

That's what I reckon too.
Apart from getting the cut accurate enough, and I think you'll have all sorts of trouble getting a cut that will look decent when assembled, how are you going to strengthen the joint? An end grain mitre like that will have little hold with just glue. How will you clamp it while it sets?

 

[big-all]

assuming its 40mm worktop you will need a plunge saw that can cut about 58mm +the rail thickness or say 61mm dont think any will cut that much

 

[misterhelpful]

Not my area of expertise at all but, out of curiosity, if the cuts were good and had a nice fit, wouldn't it be possible to use small biscuits to join the mitre?

Maybe sticking to the ones I dunk in my tea is more sensible for me!

 

[Dave54]

Not my area of expertise at all but, out of curiosity, if the cuts were good and had a nice fit, wouldn't it be possible to use small biscuits to join the mitre?

Maybe sticking to the ones I dunk in my tea is more sensible for me!

Yes, either that or the old fashioned way would be a "loose" tongue (that's loose as in separate from the other pieces, not a loose fit) of ply inserted into matching stopped grooves.

You still have to clamp it though. I don't have any experience with these solid wood tops, if they cup at all it'll be tricky to get the joint together.

You might use a joint like this on something like a bespoke modern desk, but in my experience to get the joint looking anything like you won't get a good fit straight off the saw, no matter how good the blade is (although sometimes you can be lucky). You're most likely going to end up planing (shooting) it. Tricky on a big mitre like this even with experience and the right plane.

 

[Burnerman]

I wouldn't go near this one.....the sharp edge would tend to splinter anyway, and there's no guarantee of the completed top being stable.
Go for a butt joint - either flush or with a small overhang?
John

 

[gregers]

or cut the mitre slightly smaller and make a feature out of the problem.
glue a small piece of timber along the mitre to form a break.
hope thats clear??

 

[ldoodle]

If you're wrapping it around floor cabs racking won't be much of an issue I wouldn't have thought.

If you had it 'open' though, no way a mitre would hold up. Look at the first picture of the Greenwich Shaker Grey range from Howdens:

http://www.howdens.com/kitchen-collection/kitchen-families/greenwich/greenwich-shaker-grey/

They've butt-joined more than one piece of, I assume, worktop.

 

[Gazzamuffin]

I don't think I am skilled/brave enough for this one. A butt joint it is. Thanks for all the responses.