Recommendations for tiling layout please

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Hi,

I've decided I'm going to tile the splashback area our new utility room, rather than employ a tiler (sorry tilers). It's pretty straight forward, but I would appreciate your experience and guidance on the best way to layout the tiles around a window recess as its been a while since I did any tiling. I have my thoughts, but would like to double check they are in the right ball park.

The tiles we've selected (I say we, but of course I mean my wife :D ) are "brick style" 10cm high by 20cm wide.

The area to be tiled is above an L shaped work surface. The long part of the L is 240cm (almost a perfect length for 12 full tiles) with a couple of sockets at 40cm above the worksurface. This would allow 4 rows of full tiles, but due to 2mm gaps the tiles butting upto the sockets would need to be trimmed slightly, which is a shame! The shorter part of the L contains a window and the sill will need tiling (it has been plastered), this is where I'm really looking for advice. I should say that the worksurface was installed by my brother-in-law, who is a perfectionist, and it is therefore 100% level all the way around, so that's why I'm considering starting with a full tile at the bottom, "sitting" (allowing for the 2mm gap) on the worksurface. The third wall will need tiling for the depth of the worksurface, which is 60cm. No issues with this.

The sill to the worksurface is 17cm, so just less than 2 tiles high! If I start with a full tile at the bottom, this will result in a 7cm'ish tile upto the sill, which I can also arrange to continue around each vertical edge of the window. Alternatively, should I fit a full tile immediately below the sill and then fit the cut 7cm'ish tile to the worksurface? If I do this, then it will be necesary to do this on the other two side walls as well and instead of having 4 rows of tiles I would have 3 full rows and a cut row at the bottom (7cm'ish high). This would also lower the tiles so they don't touch the sockets!

Because the tiles aren't glazed on the edge, I'm considering finishing off all the exposed tile edges (top row and end rows) with UPVC trim. I would also use this trim on the sill edges (horizontal and vertical), which I have to do anyway as these are external corners. Is surrounding the whole tiled area in UPVC trim a little over the top? I don't see any other way of hiding the un-glazed edges of the tiles.

I would appreciate your comments on the best way to tile around the window (full tiles or cut tiles) and on the use of trim.

Thanks.
 
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No way am i going to read such a long post but if you google tile trim pics, and corner tile trim pics it will help.

There is past info on here about tiling window cills and reveals.

johnbridge.com is sure to take you further if you are still stuck.
 
I KNOW THAT WHATEVER SIZE AREA YOU ARE TILING YOU MEASURE THE CENTRE OF THAT AREA AND WORK SIDE TO SIDE (SO TO SPEAK) THIS MEANS THAT WHATEVER SIZE YOUR TILES ARE, IF YOU END UP WITH SMALL TILES/PIECES TO EACH CORNER THEN BOTH EDGES WILL BE THE SAME IN SIZE
 
The tiles don't create the brick pattern, the tiler does. I presume you want "stretcher bond".

If you do then remember that vertical joins will be in different places on different courses and plan with that in mind.

If you want the tiles to finish just under the sockets then measure down from there, fit the second row up fist (to a batten) and trim a piece off the bottom of the bottom row to fit the remaining gap.

Are these bevel edge? If so consider how you will finish the vertical ends of the tiling in stretcher bond.

Example - not my kitchen.

View media item 35971
 
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Hi Ijws15,

Thanks for the photo, I confess although I'm using a "brick" tile it hadn't occurred to me that I would need to use a stretcher bond pattern. This obviously requires more thought to ensure there are no thin cuts.

I decided to go with a full tile upto the window ledge, which then leaves a 3/4 tile down to the work surface. This also gets around the issue of the sockets being in the way as the top tile will now be slightly lower. As you suggested, I screwed some batten to the wall to fit the first row of full tiles, but this is something I've always done as the floor never seems to be level in these modern houses.

I'm using some Homelux brushed steel metal trim for the external corners and to finish off all visible edges. It is much harder to cut than plastic trim, but it does look very nice. It's also not cheap and the trim alone cost twice as much as the tiles!!!
 

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