Redfyre centramatic problem

[Terrywookfit]

!/4" solenoids are no problem to source should you need one.

Flue stat lives under the top casing cover.

I also have an igniter BNIB if you need a spare.

 

[tony_p]

Hi Terrywookfit,
Great, I'll check things out and yes, if you have an igniter I'll have that off you as I only have one new one left.
cheers

 

[tony_p]

Daughter called last night and said boiler was on lockout and heavy smell of oil.
The pot had quite a lot of oil in it which I pumped out.
I changed the ignitor which was gunged up.
The boiler fired up straight way but I guess there must have been quite a bit of oil still in the pot because the flames were coming back towards the fan and bellows of smoke came out. The boiler severely groaned for a bit then settled down.
Why do you think there was so much oil in the pot?

 

[Terrywookfit]

How many attempts at relight were made from lockout.

 

[tony_p]

Hi Terrrywookfit,
thanks for quick response.
Don't know and I guess I didn't ask - more thinking of getting it back on and heading back home for supper!
I guess if she kept trying to switch on it would keep putting oil in and once the ignitor was "soaked" then there would be no chance of lighting. The ignitor looked pretty manky when I removed it.
Seems to be working ok at present though.

 

[tony_p]

Anyone have a wiring diagram for a centramatic 50?
The orange light comes on but nothing happens.
I took the cover of the "control box" and there is a solenoid to the right. When I pressed this closed everything started working so I'm thinking its an electrical problem.
Also, there is a fuse on the right which looks like it has some fuse wire shunting it. What is this fuse for and can they still be sourced?
Many thanks

 

[Martindyna]

Amazing that you still had one of these still working in late 2020 !
I used to service a Centramatic 40, years ago for a friend (actually it was about 40 years ago as well haha).
I remember being appalled that it burnt paraffin with a totally yellow flame (unlike natural draught pot burners that can burn paraffin with a blue flame **) but I was impressed at the quality of the rather strange water tube boiler arrangemet that was built to last.
As you will know these boilers would get quite sooted up after a heating season and I remember Trianco Redfyre Technical speaking of the burner going through a `smoke curve' on start up (because the burner isn't totally suitable for on / off operation; the oil comes into the pot at a fixed rate before the fire has properly established (pot has to warm up), resulting in over fuelling on start up).
** The Portakabins at my Secondary school in the late 60s had Oranier oil fired convector stoves for heating, it could be seen by a peep hole in the top that the pot burner was producing a blue flame, unless turned up too high when then the flame became yellow. Oranier are still going but have dropped their oil fired stoves.
N.B. There is a Worcester Dynaflame 50 still in operation in the UK btw, it's on YouTube. This had a blue flame burner made by Howden in Scotland and was an improvement on the American Wallflame burner (made by Timken) of the late 40s (US) and 60s (UK).

 

[tony_p]

!/4" solenoids are no problem to source should you need one.

Flue stat lives under the top casing cover.

I also have an igniter BNIB if you need a spare.

Hi Terrywookfit,
I think the solenoid which is immediately prior to the pot has failed as there is no oil getting through.
The reservoir does have oil in and if I loosen the pipe going into the solenoid from the reservoir, oil seeps out.
You mentioned that these are generally available but is there a particular spec I need (eg: I don't know what voltage goes across the solenoid).
Also, would it be okay to cut the wires at the old solenoid and just crimp the new solenoid or should it be wired back to the DAS1 control box?
Many thanks in anticipation of your help

 

[tony_p]

Amazing that you still had one of these still working in late 2020 !
I used to service a Centramatic 40, years ago for a friend (actually it was about 40 years ago as well haha).
I remember being appalled that it burnt paraffin with a totally yellow flame (unlike natural draught pot burners that can burn paraffin with a blue flame **) but I was impressed at the quality of the rather strange water tube boiler arrangemet that was built to last.
As you will know these boilers would get quite sooted up after a heating season and I remember Trianco Redfyre Technical speaking of the burner going through a `smoke curve' on start up (because the burner isn't totally suitable for on / off operation; the oil comes into the pot at a fixed rate before the fire has properly established (pot has to warm up), resulting in over fuelling on start up).
** The Portakabins at my Secondary school in the late 60s had Oranier oil fired convector stoves for heating, it could be seen by a peep hole in the top that the pot burner was producing a blue flame, unless turned up too high when then the flame became yellow. Oranier are still going but have dropped their oil fired stoves.
N.B. There is a Worcester Dynaflame 50 still in operation in the UK btw, it's on YouTube. This had a blue flame burner made by Howden in Scotland and was an improvement on the American Wallflame burner (made by Timken) of the late 40s (US) and 60s (UK).

Yes the boiler is a 1966 original. Parts are the issue - I did replace the control box which was a rebuilt unit. Ignitors are equally difficult to source - down to the last one!
The boiler is now "playing up" though. Cleaned it and new ignitor last Friday and everything worked fine. This morning, heavy smell of oil and the dreaded red light. I'm guessing either the ignitor is touching the wick and so oil not igniting or its over-filling. Any thoughts?

 

[tony_p]

As I said earlier, the wick is held by the clamp, and lies just under the glowcoil braid, if the braid touches the wick, then bend it up. Clearance of 3-4 mm is ample, as long as it touches nothing .
I can't remember offhand what the voltage is, but pretty sure it is DC. Follow the leads back to the transformer and you should find a label on there.

The boiler is still going but last Friday I cleaned it and installed a new ignitor and everything worked fine.
This morning my daughter tells me there was a heavy smell of oil and the dreaded red light.
I'm guessing either the ignitor braid is touching the wick (and so oil not igniting) or its over-filling and drowning the braid.
Your thoughts would be most appreciated.

 

[oilhead]

I think all the comments previously cover any advice. Maybe it's time to bite the bullet on replacement.

 

[tony_p]

I think all the comments previously cover any advice. Maybe it's time to bite the bullet on replacement.

They have it in the plan for the New Year. I think they will get a gas supply and go from there but at the moment its not an option due to finances (she's off following a miscarriage and so their income is much reduced).
I'll go around tomorrow and see if I can spot why its decided to stop playing ball.
If I could find a someone local with knowledge of these I'd get them in but last one left with it not working.

 

[tony_p]

So the pot had quite a lot of oil in it so emptied that, put it back together and it came on - but groaned for a short time (if thats a correct term). Seems to be running fine now.

 

[tony_p]

What would cause the pot to keep over-filling with oil?
I'm draining probably 1/4 to 1/2 pint of oil out. The boiler then starts and runs fine for 8 - 10hrs. Following day it won't ignite because of the over-fill and the braid dipping into the oil.
If I light the oil and let it burn off then start the boiler it also runs fine.
Would it be, perhaps, a solenoid valve weeping?
Very frustrating.

 

[oilhead]

The oil control valve is passing when closed.