Remeha Avanta Plus 28c question about water pressure and potential leak

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Hi all,

Have some issues last winter in my loft with 2 my heaters there not heating entirely, I mean the bottom of the heater gets hot but not the top.

I bled them but did not change the issue. did a bit of research and read that I needed to increase maybe the water pressure. I looked at my boiler water pressure indicator and there, I already have a question : There are 2 arrows in my boiler indicator, 1 black and 1 red, which one is the water pressure ?

the black one stays very close to 0, even when I open the taps of water filling (I can hear that water arrives in the system and I could verify this as my 2 top floor heaters starting to **** water as I had the heater bleeding cap opened, whihc I closed obviously when it started ****ing water)

The red one is a bit under 2. I would think the red arrow is my correct indicator of water pressure ? Interesting to see that I cannot fins this information online ??

Anyway, I thought I did the right thing, I restarted the boiler and effectively heaters are now heating properly...but a new issue came into the equation : the boiler heaters flow connexion at the bottom the boiler started to leak...

I have also a bit of leaking on on my water inlet taps (red and blue on water taps pictures) also, I'm not fully sure in what position should be the blue tap.

I know loads of question but the main one is : Does the leak from the boiler heater flow connexion is something significant or more precisely dangerous ? Should I try to rescrew things on that flow connexion ?

then which arrow is the water pressure indicator ?

and to finish : are the drip leaks around water taps are normal or I should find a boiler man to check all this properly ?

thank you very much, I'm newb , just trying to DIY :)


Pipe leak on boiler.jpg
Water pressure indicators on boiler.jpg
Watter pipes fro boiler and heating.jpg
 
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After stopping and restarting the heating, the heating flow connnexion of the boiler is still dripping a lot , defo linked to the start o the heating as as soon I put donw entirely the thermostat (stopping the house heating the dripping slows down and stops...Is it a normal process as maybe there would be too muhc water in the heating system ?
 
The black pointer shows the actual system pressure and should move,if it doesn't when adding water there is something wrong with it .the red stays in a fixed position and is set by the installer to show the optimum system pressure. The valves with black levers are in the off position when at 90 degrees to the pipe. If they lay in line with the pipe they are open. Any leaks should be attended to ,there should be no leaks.after filling / topping up pressure ,the two lever valves should be closed.
 
Thank you very much Terry, these are very helpful tips for a newb like me. Since I posted with a bit more research online, I understood that my gauge is not working (not moving at all wahtever I do) which is certainly an issue (biut does not stop the system to work). I think the leak of my boiler heater flow connexion is due to me putting maybe too much water in the system as my gauge is not working, could not know how much water I put (jsut my top floor heaters peeing through the air vent cap was the signal to stop to put water in hte system)

Anyway, we bought that house 3 years ago and never serviced the boiler, boiler which has been installed in 2007 so I guess we are due to a good service on it.

What would be your advise about servicing it ? Should we contact the manufacturer for him to direct us to a boiler man or should we look for a local boiler man ? We are in New Malden, Surrey, any advise for a boiler man ?


Thank you
 
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I am up north ,so don't know anyone to recommend in your neck of the woods. Try asking friends/ neighbours work mates etc ,see who they can recommend. Try tapping the dial lightly with finger ,it may just spring to life .
 
thx, will follow your advice with asking neighbours. Leak from the heating flow connexion has stopped after a moment with heating on so I guess there was maybe a bit too much water in the system that was being evacuated. I tapped the dial lightly , the black pointer is going up very quickly but goes down again almost instantly
 
When you book someone in to service your boiler please let them know that you also have defects such as the weeping/leaking joints and faulty pressure gauge. Repairs are NOT covered by a standard service either in time alloted or cost!

Too many customers believe that booking their broken boiler in for a service means it will be repaired!
 
Good advice from dilalio above ,you need repairs as well as a service .
 
Thanks guys, looks like the leak from the boiler itself/flow connexion is no more after a day of testing so I will put this on a too full system due to me not seeing the real gauge/pressure level and adding a bit too much water. However, yeah the gauge needs repair and I will defo mention it to any service/repair guy coming. Also, now I'm thinking that when we did the loft, the heaters were working fine the first winter but then started to not work properly the second winter, that would mean that there are certainly some leaks in the overall system (the water tap - the one circled in blue in my water tap picture above is defo leaking a tiny bit) as it is losing water overtime, will mention this as well.

Even in a system without leaks, is there any evapaoration phenomenon that will still mean that you need at one point to add some more water ? Or it should not ?
 
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Great, so if I consider my top floors eaters being around 15% of my entire heating system in terms of size/water need and they were the ones not heating properly (water not filling them or just the bottom of it, rest of the heaters in the house were working properly) after 1 year, I can think that I'm losing 15% of water in a year and it can be judged as normal loss of water if I got you well ? Is it a fair assumption ?


Again great help from you guys, I have now a better understanding of my boiler and my heaters :)
 
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