Remove small rad to decorate

[cawright1]

Hi all. Need to remove this rad to decorate. Can't find similar on YouTube so looking for any advice to remove it. Straightforward job? Any pointers appreciated, than you

Compress-20231219-212619-9900 hosted at ImgBB

Image Compress-20231219-212619-9900 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

Compress-20231219-212619-9579 hosted at ImgBB

Image Compress-20231219-212619-9579 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

 

[Madrab]

Remove the hex caps off of the valve - allan key slot below it, tighten them down to turn off flow and return, crack rad tail nut, open bleed valve and drain down rad then lift off brackets. Fitting is reverse.

 

[polesapart]

If the rad union nut is stiff to shift be sure to to hold the valve body firmly with suitable grips when applying force - you don't want put stress on the copper pipe.

 

[fixitflav]

Hi all. Need to remove this rad to decorate. Can't find similar on YouTube so looking for any advice to remove it. Straightforward job? Any pointers appreciated, than you

Compress-20231219-212619-9900 hosted at ImgBB

Image Compress-20231219-212619-9900 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

Compress-20231219-212619-9579 hosted at ImgBB

Image Compress-20231219-212619-9579 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

I wouldn't bother. Whether you're papering or painting you can get several inches in behind the rad in place, and nobody can see beyond that. Also you've got some fiddly work to do round the pipes in the corner anyway, specially if papering.

 

[Madrab]

you can get several inches in behind the rad in place

Not every rad has space down the back to paint/paper. Some Type11/21's can be tight to the wall if the rad's been hung on the short side of the bracket, nothing will fit down the back in those cases case. Can't say for sure with this one of course as the pic's a bit too small.

 

[fixitflav]

Not every rad has space down the back to paint/paper. Some Type11/21's can be tight to the wall if the rad's been hung on the short side of the bracket, nothing will fit down the back in those cases case. Can't say for sure with this one of course as the pic's a bit too small.

Possibly, yes. I've used a thin wooden plank to press paper to the wall, where there's been room. But I do prefer to avoid removing a rad if poss, with the issue of refilling with mains water, checking inhibitor etc.

 

[Madrab]

Possibly, yes. I've used a thin wooden plank to press paper to the wall, where there's been room. But I do prefer to avoid removing a rad if poss, with the issue of refilling with mains water, checking inhibitor etc.

Don't get me wrong, there are lots of rads that do have space down the back, and it's only some of the 11/21's (K1/P+) that can have a tighter short edge and the top grill sits almost tight to the wall. Suppose the covers could be removed without taking the rad off too.

 

[noddy997]

I wouldn't bother. Whether you're papering or painting you can get several inches in behind the rad in place, and nobody can see beyond that. Also you've got some fiddly work to do round the pipes in the corner anyway, specially if papering.

Absolutely agree. It's absolutely pointless, who looks behind the rad anyway, after a while you get used to the imperfections around the house.

Last thing you want is messing around with the heating system, get air in it, bracket plays up, old joints / compressions. Not worth the headache.

Cover the rad with some polythene dust sheet and paint everything white. Happy days

 

[opps]

As a decorator, I use bin bags to collect the water as I drain down rads.

You can tuck the bag up in the gap between the valve and tail nut.

I let the bags take about 5L of water and then move on to another bag, and then back to the first bag (once I have emptied the bag).

I find it works really well. Way better than trying to use baking trays/etc.

 

[Madrab]

It's absolutely pointless, who looks behind the rad anyway, after a while you get used to the imperfections around the house.

Totally disagree - it's absolutely not pointless IMO. Removing a radiator and refitting is not a difficult process if some basic rules are followed and it's quite simply doing the job properly.

Air problems, why? The rad is isolated via the valves and then bled when refitted, not difficult, nor should it upset the system - even on an open vent
Compression fittings should never be an issue if the right tools are used and then re-fitted properly with a little sealing
Brackets are only a problem if they weren't fitted correctly in the first place and if they are loose then I wouldn't want to wait until the rad fell off the wall before the bracket was then fitted securely.

Each to their own I guess.

 

[pcaouolte]

As a decorator, I use bin bags to collect the water as I drain down rads.

You can tuck the bag up in the gap between the valve and tail nut.

I let the bags take about 5L of water and then move on to another bag, and then back to the first bag (once I have emptied the bag).

I find it works really well. Way better than trying to use baking trays/etc.

I do something similar but I use the plastic bag to guide the water into a washing up bowl which wouldn't fit under the radiator. The plastic bag will guide the water far enough in a horizontal(ish) direction to fill a bowl standing in front of the radiator.

I do find the newer radiator valves with an olive make it harder to get the radiator off because you need more movement in the pipes than the older valves which just had two parts touching and connected together with a nut. I don't know the technical terms for these two types of valve.

 

[johnny2007]

Wet & dry vacuum cleaner and an old towel for any spillage.

 

[Madrab]

Plumb tub and a plain old bucket for me but I use them all the time