Tried to take a radiator off today. Ended in minor disater

[Tagged]

Hi folks.

So I'm pretty new to DIY and have never really done any plumbing before. Some of my radiators are luke warm in the middle so I decided to attempt removing one and flushing it through with a hose to remove any sludge.

I've watched a few youtube videos and it seemed really straight forward. So off I went, turned the lockshield valve off, turned the trv off, undid the nut and drained out as much water as I could...

It's a double radiator and I wasn't sure how much water should come out overall so eventually I stopped draining it and just lifted it off (the weight of it!!) and ofc black sludge over the kitchen but luckily it wasn't too bad.

Went outside and poured it out and there was loads of black water, so I connected a hose and as it was running through I went inside to check all was well and noticed there was still a drip coming from the pipe where the lockshield was. Seems the cap nut? I'm not sure the proper term had actually split.

So I didn't actually touch this myself but I'm wondering was this my fault maybe held it with the grips when taking it off or had a plumber who installed it before I bought the house could have overtightened it and I've just been the one to stress it that bit too much? I do also remember a decorator taking it off to paint.

So the purpose of my post is this.

I've now had to try and bodge the leak with silicone which is useless I know but just to try and slow it down for tonight and wrap it in towels, plumber coming tomorrow at 8.30 to replace it which will be expensive for something so small but obviously essential.

I would have liked to replace this myself but unsure how to not flood my house. A friend suggested I drain the system myself and just replace it but I'm unsure how. My boiler is in the garage and there are 2 valves there which seem to shut off water with a pipe that seems to drain once I open it with a screwdriver as water shot out at me, I did try it but wasn't sure if I was doing the right thing or if I had to do anything with the water tank in the attic ect, so didnt want to risk it but was wondering if anyone in this forum could point me in the right direction... Its an oil heating system I can provide more pictures if necessary.

Will this happen everytime I try to take off a radiator? May seem minor to some but will cost me £40-50+ to have a plumber fix this now and things are pretty tight for me money wise hence trying to improve the heating at home myself.

Many thanks for reading and for your help here are some pictures.

(I can't get the 1 with all the valves for thd water to upload so I'll try it later)

https://ibb.co/TkMDLpR
https://ibb.co/GpkT7Qk
https://ibb.co/F6fBZj9
https://ibb.co/LrDfWTP
https://ibb.co/VpZHw9S

 

[muggles]

Yeah you've just been unlucky there, very very rare for one of those nuts to split and unlikely to be caused by anything you did. That lockshield has a bit missing though so it's best replaced anyway. As for how to drain your system, impossible to say without more information. Do you have a small tank in your loft which tops up the system, or do you have to fill it up manually using a filling loop? Can you upload a photo of the general boiler area?

 

[terryplumb]

Is your central heating pressurised/ sealed ,or fed from a small loft tank ?

 

[Tagged]

Yeah you've just been unlucky there, very very rare for one of those nuts to split and unlikely to be caused by anything you did. That lockshield has a bit missing though so it's best replaced anyway. As for how to drain your system, impossible to say without more information. Do you have a small tank in your loft which tops up the system, or do you have to fill it up manually using a filling loop? Can you upload a photo of the general boiler area?

Thanks for your reply.

It was all going well until I saw a dribble going down the pipe. Stuff like this always happens to me the Mrs goes mental haha.

The bit missing I'm assuming is the little nut below the lockshield valve? I have it I had to unscrew it to get it to move as it was welded shut so took it off and a little wd40.

Apologies I have more images but it won't seem to show in my gallery when trying to upload it and it's to dark now to take more I'll try get some better ones tomorow and re-upload.

The plumber coming round tomorrow repalce the water tank with a plastic one when we moved in saying our current one was rusted to high heaven, would this be for the heating?

The previous owner moved the boiler to the garage, so I'm not sure what way everything is situated now. Ill grab some pics of the garage and let you guys have a good look, but I'm not sure how it's fed.

I hope the radiator is at least functioning better now with all this hassle and the black sludge came out of it was black as your boot!

 

[conny]

That black sludge stains like hell and often stinks to high heaven.

 

[muggles]

Rather than uploading pics to an external gallery, just use the one provided on the forum.

 

[Tagged]

Rather than uploading pics to an external gallery, just use the one provided on the forum.

View attachment 258138

Damnit I didn't even see that I've been trying to use the link image button everytime, here's me can take a computer apart and put it back together but can't upload an image to a forum

Here's a pic of the water that came out lol

 

[terryplumb]

Not much point if you have booked a plumber ,but for future ref ,worth asking for advice before you start.

 

[Tagged]

Not much point if you have booked a plumber ,but for future ref ,worth asking for advice before you start.

On replacing the valve? I need to get it fixed ASAP it's wrapped in towels leaking but would like advice for future as I have more radiators to do

 

[oldbutnotdead]

First bit of advice- if you can live with it til the weather gets warmer, do so- means if you hit problems, not having heating for a few days isn't such a big deal.
Next tip- before you do any more, go up to the loft and clean the crud out of the f & e tank (the small one)- otherwise all that crud will end up in your pipework when you refill the rads.

 

[BlueLoo]

Being practical,

Just stick a hose on the end of the rad valve and drain the pressure off.
If you have a head tank in the attic, tie up the stop cock 1st.

That will stop the leak.
You can replace the valve then easy enough or have a plumber do it

Clearly, i think you were right to remove the rads.

Whilst its drained down, do them all. the trick is to hold the rad valve when undoing so that your torque doesn't stress the joints. (Watch the videos).

Flush the rads, clean tank (if you have one) add cleaner, wait for a few weeks, drain, flush, job oxo.

Sealed systems need a professional apparently.

 

[muggles]

Sealed systems need a professional apparently.

Why? Sealed systems are easier to work on than vented ones

 

[BlueLoo]

Why? Sealed systems are easier to work on than vented ones

I don't know.

Every time sealed systems come up, the pros go nuts demanding the work be done by a "G3" certified installer.
Either way, the OP should be doing his research and making sure he is ok with what he is doing.


(Sealed ~ pressurized for the pedants)

 

[terryplumb]

I don't know.

Every time sealed systems come up, the pros go nuts demanding the work be done by a "G3" certified installer.
Either way, the OP should be doing his research and making sure he is ok with what he is doing.


(Sealed ~ pressurized for the pedants)

It's UNvented cylinders and associated components that need G3 certified operatives .

 

[muggles]

I don't know.

Every time sealed systems come up, the pros go nuts demanding the work be done by a "G3" certified installer.
Either way, the OP should be doing his research and making sure he is ok with what he is doing.


(Sealed ~ pressurized for the pedants)

Unvented cylinders require G3. Sealed heating systems do not