removing integrated hob / oven for freestanding cooker

[beprepared]

Hello all,

I'm thinking about removing an integrated hob / oven which i have inherited from moving into a new property recently.

The hob / oven is integrated into a self assembled kitchen storage and here's what it looks like.

Here's what i want to do:

1. Turning off gas supply
2. remove the hob
3. remove the oven from structure
4. cut top of worktop from (either-side of hob)
5. remove structure holding the main oven making way for freestanding cooker

I have a few questions regarding this:

Assuming all this happens would the cabinets either side be structurally safe so they effectively self support? Or would they need additional support of some kind? Is there anything I missed or haven't considered doing?

 

[gregers]

yes and no

 

[Deleted member 174758]

1. Turning off gas supply

The gas hob should be connected into a self-sealing bayonet connector at the back, but it's still a good idea to isolate the gas at the mains. There may be a hard-wired electrical connecttion to either or both the hob and the oven

4. cut top of worktop from (either-side of hob)
5. remove structure holding the main oven making way for freestanding cooker

I'd go the other way around this, i.e. detach the oven carcass from the units to either side. You'll have to remove the plinth first (it's on clips in all probability), so it should just pull off). It will probably be screwed through the side into or from the adjacent cabinets and it might be fixed to the back wall using screws or screws and brackets. It will almost certainly be screwed into the underside of the worktop. Once you have the unit detached, wind the feet up 10mm or so off the floor and it should then just drop and pull-out. If it doesn't youve missed a fastening or two, so look beneath drawer runners, hinge plates, etc for hidden ones. Once the unit is out it is much easier to remove the section of top without hitting ironmongery. Ir takes a circular saw with a fresh, fine tooth TCT blade to make 90% of the cut, a fresh fine tooth saw to make another 8% of the cut (awkward because the saw is reversed and used vertically), the last bit of the cut you need to cut the silicone sealant with a Stanley knife and faff around with a shatp chisel. Whatever you do support the worktop you are cutting out using temporary battens, etc at all times.

I suggest that you seal off the ends using metal end caps - more durable and heat resistant than laminate not to mention they will cover slight chipping (easier to retri fit than laminate, too)

Assuming all this happens would the cabinets either side be structurally safe so they effectively self support?

Yes. Remember you may need some extra plinth material to make the returns. Also iron on edging for the resulting cut ends

 

[foxhole]

Assuming you don't need the cooker carcass you can cut thru it centrally to allow easy removal [after removing any screws holding it in place].
You will need a hand saw to finish the cuts to the worktop and it will probably run under any tiling, a multi tool would help with final trim under tile.
You will also need to ensure floor level is in line with existing as unlikely to have tile under it [assuming it's a tiled floor].
As stated you will need a metal edging strip to hide cut and neaten edge of worktop.

 

[AlanE]

1. Turning off gas supply

The gas hob should be connected into a self-sealing bayonet connector at the back,

Hobs, unless the manufacturer of it specifically deems it OK to use a flexible hose and bayonet connector, should be permanently piped in with an isolation valve.