Removing Towel Rad

[yartin]

Hi
I need to remove tower rad, pls see pics. What's the best way? The 15mm copper pipes are buried in concrete floor so not much leeway and don't want to move in case goes wrong and big trouble.
I am thinking to take of the top nuts and empty water using the pump in the first pic, hose pipe will be inserted to suck the water and then loosen valve nuts and lift the rad up of the 2 bracket. Will this work?

Does anyone recognise this rad, if I can buy same for straight replacement?

Are female 3/4" blanking cap the right size, until finish decoration?

Thanks

 

[terryplumb]

Show us a pics of the valves on the feed to rad.
Don't see why you can't pump out the water contents.

 

[oldbuffer]

1. Your approach is generally sound.
2. Step by step you might:
2.1 Turn off the boiler.
2.2 Close both radiator valves completely. Measure the number of 1/8th turns necessary to close the lock shield valve, so that you can re-open the same amount to preserve system balance.
2.3 Loosen the radiator bleed valve to make sure the bottom valves are not leaking. You might get a spurt of water at first, but it should die away to nothing in a few seconds. Leave it loose.
2.4 Remove one of the top plugs and suck water out with your pump.
2.5 Remove the other plug and suck water out of that side.
2.6 Its unlikely you'll be able to suck all the water out.
2.7 Replace both plugs and tighten the bleed valve. Plenty of old towels around the valves.
2.8 Undo the nuts holding the valves to the radiators, NOT the ones holding the valve to the pipes going into the floor.
2.9 Lift the radiator off and quickly invert it with a thumb over each inlet.
3. I don't know what make / model of towel rail it is. Unlikely you will find an exact replacement.
4. The key dimension is the distance between the inlet centres. You can work this out before removal by measuring the distance between the outsides of the flow and return pipes, and subtracting 15 - all in millimetres.
5. A new radiator will likely need new brackets, and these will be fixed in different places. Put the new radiator fully onto the valves with someone to take most of the weight (or use a car scissor jack) then measure and mark out where the brackets will go. Remove radiator and fit brackets.
6. Lift radiator onto brackets, and secure valves
7. If you haven't got the pump, you could syphon most of the water out.
8. If you have someone to help, and the floor is pretty much waterproof, do 2.1, 2.2 and 2.9 above. One thumb from each person, and be quick!

 

[yartin]

1. Your approach is generally sound.
2. Step by step you might:
2.1 Turn off the boiler.
2.2 Close both radiator valves completely. Measure the number of 1/8th turns necessary to close the lock shield valve, so that you can re-open the same amount to preserve system balance.
2.3 Loosen the radiator bleed valve to make sure the bottom valves are not leaking. You might get a spurt of water at first, but it should die away to nothing in a few seconds. Leave it loose.
2.4 Remove one of the top plugs and suck water out with your pump.
2.5 Remove the other plug and suck water out of that side.
2.6 Its unlikely you'll be able to suck all the water out.
2.7 Replace both plugs and tighten the bleed valve. Plenty of old towels around the valves.
2.8 Undo the nuts holding the valves to the radiators, NOT the ones holding the valve to the pipes going into the floor.
2.9 Lift the radiator off and quickly invert it with a thumb over each inlet.
3. I don't know what make / model of towel rail it is. Unlikely you will find an exact replacement.
4. The key dimension is the distance between the inlet centres. You can work this out before removal by measuring the distance between the outsides of the flow and return pipes, and subtracting 15 - all in millimetres.
5. A new radiator will likely need new brackets, and these will be fixed in different places. Put the new radiator fully onto the valves with someone to take most of the weight (or use a car scissor jack) then measure and mark out where the brackets will go. Remove radiator and fit brackets.
6. Lift radiator onto brackets, and secure valves
7. If you haven't got the pump, you could syphon most of the water out.
8. If you have someone to help, and the floor is pretty much waterproof, do 2.1, 2.2 and 2.9 above. One thumb from each person, and be quick!

Thank you
It's a wet room so some water on floor will be OK, my worry is the weight, is it heavy when nearly empty of water?

Are female 3/4" blanking cap the right size, until finish decoration?

 

[yartin]

Show us a pics of the valves on the feed to rad.
Don't see why you can't pump out the water contents.

I put a pic of valve in previous post, thanks

 

[terryplumb]

That valve in pic certainly looks like a 3/4 union, so yes a female blanking cap would be needed.
Closing the valves off would usually suffice ,without a cap, as long as they are in good condition and do fully close.
Not too heavy once empty,but 2 people make life easier.

 

[Tricky-Dicky]

Flomasta BSP Blank Nut 3/4" x - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Brass blank nut. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

 

[yartin]

I did it few mins ago, pic below. The left was full of water to the top which I emptied but the right side was empty, is this normal? The valves were turned off since last winter.
I am waiting until I get the blank nuts and then take of the rad , just in case leaking valves.
Thanks

 

[terryplumb]

After draining the left side ,there wouldn't be anything to drain from the right hand side.

 

[yartin]

I am looking for replacement radiator. The pipe spacing I have is 460mm, would a rad with 450mm spacing fit with same pipework or do I need to alter it?

Also holes in walls for new rad bracket would be in different locations, my wall is platerboard and have no idea if current brackets are screwed to studs. Can I fix such rads to plasterboad, which fixings are recommended?