render system for SIPs house

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Leeds
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Can anybody please help?
I have been searching for a cost effective way of applying a render finish to a SIPs (Structurally Insulated Panels) house, which is in many respects similar to a timber framed house. The external wall finish I want is a rendered finish but do not want to build an external skin of blockwork to apply this render to. I have been told there are various external grade boards that can be fixed off the timber frame on battens to which you can apply a render but these all seem to be so expensive. Has anybody dealt with any inexpensive render systems? I could undertake some of the work myself to try and reduce costs.
 
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Cover the OSB with build. paper then galvanized chicken wire and render goes on top. Thats the way how they do this in US. I done my extension this way last year, so far no problems or even tiny cracks.
 
more likley ,dry fix50mm phenolic,mesh +hp12+desired finish,grants are up for grabs and are open to home owners,contact you local energy firm!
 
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Cover the OSB with build. paper then galvanized chicken wire and render goes on top. Thats the way how they do this in US. I done my extension this way last year, so far no problems or even tiny cracks.

Hi Aleks.

What did you do around the windows, especially under the cills - did you have to leave a masticed movement joint or has it been fine without it?

How much did you lap the chicken wire and did you tie it together or just screw it in at the joins?

Was the chicken wire flat on the paper or somehow off it a couple of mill (Like rib lath would be)

I imagine Chicken Wire works out a hell of a lot cheaper than EML/Rib Lath so interested in the method.

Thanks
 
Micilin,
I can tell you that they used rabbit wire over old brick when they render and tyroleaned the front of my cottage
and that didn't work over the old brick its got hair line cracks all over, they left it scratch coated for a week before they top coated.
 
yes mate youve got the stuff,there are real heavyweight mesh cloths out there,so thick you butt the joints,we also pin thru the mesh after its scratched when you cant be sure of a bond ie oil based paints and such,also been using it internally for years inside on overskims,stoped using metal as it was found the expansion of the metal in heat(especialy on insulations)was the cause of many cracks.
http://www.alumascfacades.co.uk/system-components.aspx?sub=0&id=1&sect=6
prolly have to cut n paste that im not very good at linking stuff:D
FIRST TIME THATS WORKED :LOL:
 
We bought rolls of 5mm squares F/glass mesh and put it on with a Spit Pulsar nail gun (with washers) over a bad surface before spray applying a sharp sand, cement mix. Worked very well. I have seen 10 mm mesh too.
 
FIRST TIME THATS WORKED :LOL:
I'll get the accident book , then. ;)

I use the fibreglass mesh almost everywhere too, it's great for bonding out old work as well as rendering. Very good for over a patch in a ceiling.

It's great stuff, worth it's weight



The only place where I find the eml still good is over timber/building paper beside doorframes . I don't nail into the timber, as I want that to be able to move behind the paper/mesh, so I find stretched eml roll is better, I nail it onto the adjacent blockwork or butter it on.
 
We bought rolls of 5mm squares F/glass mesh and put it on with a Spit Pulsar nail gun (with washers) over a bad surface before spray applying a sharp sand, cement mix. Worked very well. I have seen 10 mm mesh too.

Do you just spray thru the mesh or give it a coat before meshing? ie push mesh into first coat?

What are your centres for the fixings? Never used nail gun on this, very interesting.
 
We bought rolls of 5mm squares F/glass mesh and put it on with a Spit Pulsar nail gun (with washers) over a bad surface before spray applying a sharp sand, cement mix. Worked very well. I have seen 10 mm mesh too.

Do you just spray thru the mesh or give it a coat before meshing? ie push mesh into first coat?

What are your centres for the fixings? Never used nail gun on this, very interesting.
There seems to be two theories, if not nailing then skim on the mesh with first coat, but I like the fact that the mesh is connected, so we tend to put it on first. For Sips, I guess a smooth skim with the mesh, then nails. The Spit comes with a magnetic washer holder that allows very good fix at 300mm approx centres, but for a light top coat, maybe wider. Decopierre is heavy, and don't forget the over lapping mesh takes one nail. Pictures available.
 

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