RENDERING DETAILS

[BROWNSDECOR81]

HI NEED ABIT OF HELP IM GOIN 2 ATTEMPT TO RENDER MY EXTENSION I DO QUITE ABIT OF PLASTERING BUT NOT DONE RENDERING BEFORE!. ive got breeze block walls and it really needs to be rendered! i need to know : when do i fix the drip, corner & stop beads before scratch or after
:are battons a good idea?
:how do i finish under the drip bead over the dpc?
all other aspects im confident with but any other tips would be apreciated!
thanks

 

[trowelmonkey1]

Hi Browns,

Like you i do internal plastering but as far as my understanding goes:

drip/bellcast beads go onto the wall before the scratch coat and as far as finishing beneath the bead, you don't, fit the bead a course or 2 above the DPC and leave it at that.

See what some render pro's say though

 

[roughcaster]

First of all,, I always put my beads on, and then scratch.
Secondly,,,
as long as the DPC is not bridged, there is no problem rendering underneath the "plinth" below bell cast bead. I do it that way regularly if it is blockwork. With finished brickwork, you wouldn't need too. The beading must be "fixed at DPC level",, so that the bell shape hangs below it. Most folk would then paint the plinth after it has been rendered,,,, looks smart.

BUT,,,,,
One way "NOT" to fix a b/cast bead, is to tap nails in at the actual DPC level, and sit the lengths of beading onto the nails to position/level them,,, and then fix it. Because of the bell shape of the bead, the dpc "will" be bridged using this method,,, think about it,,, it's a no no....

Roughcaster.

 

[roughcaster]

OOOOPS, never meant this one.

Roughcaster.

 

[Alastairreid]

are battons a good idea?

if you are experienced in render works, forming bellcasts corners etc can be accomplished using straight edges and battens! much quicker with beads though

 

[roy c]

Or you can run your battens through level and fit your belbead on top and "pin" it with masonary nails with washers on, put a coat on and pull the "nails out when set. Like R.C. says make sure you dont nail into the D.P.C......,Also I usually I just put one coat on underneath the dripbead and float and sponge it up if it is getting painted...(on block-work).....

 

[BROWNSDECOR81]

cheers for the replys! the things i was worried about were ok but it hasnt gone 2 plan! i just done 1 small area 2 c how it goes,n it went bad!!! its all cracked n basically hasnt adheared to the blocks don't think its the mix n i soaked the wall before i wondered if i tried to put too much on in 1 go instead of building the layers up gradually? i don't no wot ive done knocked my confidance but i don't like being defeated!!! ne thoughts?

 

[legs-akimbo]

I havent used a bell cast bead in Donkeys years.
The 2x1 lath method is far and away better.
Scratch coat the whole wall from top to bottom dropping a nail lightly into the dpc course so that you know its position.
Using 70mm steel (masonary nails) tack up the 2x1 till you have a good hold ....Not washered nails mind as previously stated.
Once the lath is fixed at all corners at DPC level use a string line pulled tight across the top and nail up horizontally every four foot or so ( Do not sink nails fully into timber)
Then same string line across the face of lath and pull out the lath to the line till perfectly straight.... Hey presto beats fiddling with wonky ill fitting bell beads any time.
Dub out the bottom of the (bell cast cum) lath
Render the walls then next day remove timbers which will leave a nice clean edge better still two days.... then float up the scratch coated plinth below for the perfect job.
Scratch render nice and wet mix, soak walls in hot weather.

 

[roughcaster]

Legs,,,when I first started plastering/rendering,,, all corners, soffits/reveals, render stop etc were formed using timber battens. Some were tacked into place, others were held in place manually, and slid away carefully when the coat had been put on,, a skill in itself. Changed days now when there are beads for everything.

Roughcaster.

 

[stuart45]

and slid away carefully when the coat had been put on,, a skill in itself.

Roughcaster.

It is quite a skill. I've held the timber for the spreads a few times myself in the past and often taken half the corner away when taking it off. It served them right for taking the ends of my fingers off with the trowel.

 

[legs-akimbo]

Legs,,,when I first started plastering/rendering,,, all corners, soffits/reveals, render stop etc were formed using timber battens. Some were tacked into place, others were held in place manually, and slid away carefully when the coat had been put on,, a skill in itself. Changed days now when there are beads for everything.

Roughcaster.

Beads for everything is not always better or quicker, a bit of string line timber and steel nails is quicker straighter and cheaper, ditto patent reveals, bands and quoins.
Those apart then beads rock !

 

[roy c]

You have only got to look in a "plasterers" tool kit and you will find a few 4"x3/4" straight edges ( sometimes bevel edged) used for screeding and forming revels......and a plasterer always has some , plaster-board nails and masonary nails in his kit,(or his pockets) as I tell my lads.....