rendering plinth under bellcast bead without bridging dpc

[tireetim]

I am trying to work out how to fix a bell cast bead that will have a rendered plinth below but without bridging the dpc or leaving a strange looking gap of exposed brick.
I was going to put the bead just above the DPC with the downward sloping base of the bead dropping to level / just below the dpc. Then I was going to render a plinth the just below the dpc but it's how much gap I need to leave that is the problems (would look silly with a cm or two of bare brick). I was hoping to go to just a few mm below the dpc and hopefully the gap would not be too visible due to the overhang of the bell cast bead. Is this correct?

Thanks if anyone can help.
p.s. - I'm here with the beads in hand ready to do the job so any quick replies would be really appreciated !!!

 

[tireetim]

I should add that I have removed the previous plinth that was bridging the dpc and now the exposed bricks look very tatty. Because of the ground levels there are between 4 and 6 courses below the dpc that would be exposed. If it looked good I would just leave them but the plinth is for decorative purposes and to protect the bricks from splash back. DPC is one course below the painted red bricks in the pictures :

Untitled

• tireetim
• 28 Aug 2014
• 1

Untitled

• tireetim
• 28 Aug 2014
• 1

 

[Micilin]

If you put the inside part of the bead (where the upturned fold that is under the mesh meets the sloping part ) touching the DPC.
Then the render above and below will be separate and you won't see any gap inthe plinth.

I'm sure some one can explain better?

 

[roy c]

Exactly what micilin said , If you have a look in my album "Rough casting a garage " I think its the third picture ,what I did and usually do is get some 2"x1" batten and fix it to the wall just below the dpc so the bead rests on it and as micilin said the bottom of the back of the bead where it forms the angle can sit just over the dpc and pin it to the wall and the plinth can be brought up to it when you do it , then theoretically it will be below the dpc and the bead will stop any "tracking back and bridging the dpc. I tend to throw quite a thick coat on the bead and scrape it back a bit when it picks up and when you top coat it just bring your render straight down over the front of the bead, (as you need to build the thickness out on that part of the bead so I do it on the scratch coat as opposed to the top coat, Hope you understand this ,,

 

[tireetim]

Thanks Micilin and Roy, so it's the actual bead that provides the break in the two surfaces and stops the dpc being bridged. That makes sense, I was wondering why I could never see a gap in all the houses around here. Thanks very much for your help. This forum is great - I've been trawling the internet trying to find that out and couldn't find anything.
On a side note, if anybody knows of any good guides or video links detailing how to sand and cement render I would be really grateful. There are plenty on internal plastering but very little about external rendering (how wet should the mix be, when is it best to float up etc.)

 

[Micilin]

Great tip from Roy on using a batten , the sitting the bead on it.