Repairing Ceramic gully drain

[JohnD]

if that really is a trap, the top of the bend should be quite close to where you are working. Might be worth scrabbling away the soil and stones to find it. You don't want it broken. The height of the water in your spigot should be the height to pass the bend, it looks high to me so make sure there is not a blockage.

 

[DIY67]

if that really is a trap, the top of the bend should be quite close to where you are working. Might be worth scrabbling away the soil and stones to find it. You don't want it broken. The height of the water in your spigot should be the height to pass the bend, it looks high to me so make sure there is not a blockage.

Ok, will check that. Already ordered the adapter though. Would a set of drain rods be the best thing to get for this ? There was a lot of fat build up in the ceramic pipe so I imagine perhaps this will be the cause.

 

[JohnD]

I think it's usual to start with a rubber glove and a long-handled spoon

you can use hot water and washing soda (not caustic) to wash away grease, but do that after you've removed the blockage and have flow.

the reason for not using strong chemicals first is that they might be harmful to anyone subsequently trying to clear or repair the drain. It's very difficult to rinse them out of a blocked pipe.

If you're lucky and your drain is modern and assembled with those hep-sleeve type connectors, you may be able to pull the trap off.

 

[DIY67]

I think it's usual to start with a rubber glove and a long-handled spoon

you can use hot water and washing soda (not caustic) to wash away grease, but do that after you've removed the blockage and have flow.

the reason for not using strong chemicals first is that they might be harmful to anyone subsequently trying to clear or repair the drain. It's very difficult to rinse them out of a blocked pipe.

If you're lucky and your drain is modern and assembled with those hep-sleeve type connectors, you may be able to pull the trap off.

Hopefully it will be a small blockage but this drainage was built in 1982 when my mum had the extension built.

 

[Ian H]

If the water level stays the same when you run a hose down then it's not blocked.

 

[JohnD]

well put.

 

[DIY67]

Well I finished installing the gutter and pointed the brickwork. I ended up having my arm down the drain (horrible, horrible smell and greasy mess) and pulled out a few lumps of stone, coal ! and pieces of congealed fat (almost threw up) until I couldn't any other bits in there. It does fill up quite high still (especially with the washing machine) but always goes back to the same level. Perhaps in the future I will pop a drain rod down there but at least it isn't leaking. The only thing is if the washing machine is pumping out the water at full capacity it can get too high for my liking and bounces off the plastic mesh of the grid so may put a pipe sized hole in it.

I have dug the soil away from the pipe and put coarse stone to give better drainage around it so the soil doesn't rot the jubilee clips.

Thanks again for all the advice here.

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[JohnD]

yes, you can nip through the plastic grille and poke the pipe through it. Maybe a 135 degree bend would be enough (well fixed so it can't come off and get into ther trap)

the brickwork looks much improved.

I am concerned that the hole still looks wet, maybe see if it dries out before you cover it up. It's still possible that there is a leak or further damage to the pipework or joints not yet found.

Hot water and washing soda will help wash away the grease and any soap deposits. It doesn't hurt to put it down the sink weekly. And pour cooking fat into a tin or onto a wad of kitchen roll, and wipe out pans, don't let it do down the drain.