repairing solder join advice

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hi folks,

after my post couple of days ago I'm really happy my removing and refitting a really dodgy solder join and fitting a few more went great thatnks for all the advice.. :)

Now another one is just seeping slightly. takes few mins and just a seep not even a drip but still needs sorted.

It's the bottom join of this tee:


It would be a real pain to remove and refit which I know is the proper way.. and it's only a small leak from the nearest side, the top and side solder look great.

So do you think I could patch it up? (I'm no expert but as said in last post used to be a good gas welder and seem to have the hang of soldering, none of other joints are leaking. woohoo!

If I can patch it up, what's the best way? Sand it well, wee bit flux, not too much heat and plenty solder??

or is it a total waste of time?

thanks for advice before I try..
 
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Either chop it out and replace completely, or resolder it properly - that will no doubt take a couple of attempts.

No water in pipe.
Clean pipes nicely
Enough heat.
Enough flux.
Get the solder running.
Bit more flux
Feed solder in.

Hope for the best.

Rinse

Repeat as necessary.


See my first sentence above.
 
ok cheers Dan,

so when you say resolder properly, do you mean remove joint totally then clean up & resolder?
rather than try & add solder into the join without completely removing?
 
It depends why it's leaking.

Like I said, really your best bet is to chop out the fitting completely and replace.

On occasion I have taken this kind of joint apart and wondered how the hell it held water at all.

You may be lucky and get it to hold by just pumping more solder in, but it'll have to be totally water free and you'll need to get the flux right in there before adding solder (heat attracts the flux/solder into the joint).
 
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Looks a real mess in the picture.

Drain down and leave for a while.

Apply torch and warm the joint up a bit to dry it out inside.

Leave again.

paste joint up with flux and apply flux to the end of some solder.

Give the joint a good blast of heat (my brazing torch comes in useful here).
Then apply some more solder with the flux. Give the piping a bit of a shake
to move the joint about a bit to get it to reseat.
Lastly remove the heat and give the joint a brush with flux as it is cooling.
Should sort it.
Otherwise cut the section out.
 
right ta. Yes, the top & side look like a good join.

how do you get flux into the join that's already soldered?

heat obviously to melt & remove some existing solder, but just shove some flux round join?
cos you're right, solder needs flux to draw it in i know..

guess i just need to give it a gp, it's the hassle of draining and refilling just to find it;s still leaking..
 
, it's the hassle of draining and refilling just to find it;s still leaking..


Welcome to our world, where we are charging for time, and moaned at then it takes "too long".

Why it is often easier to change the whole thing.

Soldering that kind of stuff is not difficult really, but you need "the feel" for when the solder is running properly.

Bit like Chess really.
 
If you really must try to repair an old leaking joint I have found that flux cored radio solder to be the most likely to succeed.

Used to be Ersin Multicore!

Tony
 
right ta. Yes, the top & side look like a good join.

how do you get flux into the join that's already soldered?

heat obviously to melt & remove some existing solder, but just shove some flux round join?
cos you're right, solder needs flux to draw it in i know..

guess i just need to give it a gp, it's the hassle of draining and refilling just to find it;s still leaking..

Think capillery... ( my spelling has seriously gone down hill since turning 50
:eek: )
 
If you really must try to repair an old leaking joint I have found that flux cored radio solder to be the most likely to succeed.

Used to be Ersin Multicore!

I would CERTAINLY take this advice with a pinch of salt if the pipes carry drinking water. HATE to think what flux will do to a stomach let alone metal composition of solder wire which may well have lead content higher than permitted. Very dodgy advice from Mr Agile who claims to work to precision standards. Talk about 'inappropriate' fitting :eek:
 
The top pipe is smaller so will be 15mm or 1/2", I think I am correct in saying they are compatible with regard to fittings. (I'm not a plumber). However, the bigger pipe could be 22mm or 3/4" which I do not believe are compatible with regard to fittings.
So if you intend to get a new fitting you may need to be careful.

Personally, assuming there is no 'loose' in the pipes, I would cut the 15mm pipe a few inches above the joint then remove the remaining 15mm pipe from the joint. Now I would remove the joint from the 2 larger pipes.
Once removed I would clean up the pipes with some gentle heat and a good wipe and then steel wool, and then replace the joint or if difficult to source because of size I would clean up th old joint and re-use it. Everything needs to very clean. You can use new 15mm for the stub.
Finally I would re-join the 15mm with a straight connector. This of course depends on there being a bit of slack to allow a fitting to be inserted.

andytw
 
cut it out not worth messing with,get a couple of 22mm slip sockets if its room or movement your struggling with
 
if you go down the replacement route rather than clean up then wherever you go to get the fittings and buy some extra fittings, any ones , elbows, tees whatever. practise with these before going back to the joint in the picture.watch what happens when you apply heat and when the solder strats to run,as suggested in the other posts
 

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