Replace Honeywell T6360 with remote simple thermostat for elderly

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Hey all. I appreciate that this question has been answered many times, but I was interested to hear your feedback on the latest replacement central heating thermostats.

I want to replace my mum's Honeywell T6360B manual thermostat (4 wire supply, see photo) running a Glow worm Micron non-combi boiler. The manual stat is many years old and is not in a great location. She is forever adjusting it up/down.

I'm looking for a wireless thermostat (+ receiver box) she can have on the table next to her chair. Key is that is has a large display and is super simple to use. She won't be able to program it. My inclination was to replace with a Honeywell TR3 or TR4 but the display isn't huge. I've seen;

https://www.toolstation.com/corgi-touchscreen-room-thermostat/p89749 - large display
Or I'm even considering a Hive, as it has a super simple dial control and large numbers.

Any recommendations appreciated.


20210124_102410.jpg
 
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Went for a Honeywell T3R in the end, as it was preferred by the user.

I'm reviewing forum postings and watching the Honeywell videos, but if anyone can confirm the correct rewiring from the previous T6360B to the T3R wireless receiver backplate I'd appreciate it. It looks to me like;

Blue 2 to N
Green/Yellow 3 to first L
Brown 1 to A
Black 4 to B

Thanks
T6360B to T3R.jpg
 
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The central heating controller is a Danfoss 4033, if that makes any difference.
And I understand that using the earth cable for a non-earth connection is rather ugly, but this system has not been worked on for years.
 
I’m not sure why terminal 4 has been used. Assuming they’re permanent live and permanent neutral then:
2 blue (neutral) to N
1 brown to L next to N
Link L to A as in diagram
Switch live (green/yellow) sleeved brown to B (see if you can amend this)
Would probably park 4 (black) in c, unless it serves a purpose
 
Thanks again Chris. I've been doing more research and understand a little better now the reason for a permanent live, and why these units are normally located next to the boiler, rather than as a thermostat swap. As this is non-critical work how could I check to ensure there is a permanent live and neutral? Check the connections at the controller? Use a meter etc. I'm not questioning your advice, rather I just want to make sure I've done my homework correctly. The last thing I want it is to break something. Also I appreciate the learning.
 
You may need to see how it’s been wired and where the wires come from. However you can hopefully just test the wiring for voltage, and that should tell you.
 
Nickb99...just a little word of advice. I got a new boiler and T3R in August. All professionally fitted and certified. I've been very pleased except for one issue. The T3R sender seems to lose its date and time settings for no apparent reason. It flashes and asks me to reset the date and time. It does retain my CH settings though. I contacted Honeywell and they said that it indicates a fault in the unit and it could be replaced under warranty. I decided to keep it for the moment as it's easy to re-enter the date etc. but my installer agrees that he will replace it if it keeps happening. Handle it very gently and don't press too hard on the front panel covering the buttons (with unit closed). But this problem has surfaced overnight too without any moving of the unit.
 
I'm assuming that the 4 core cable from the room thermostat runs to the controller. There is only one matching cable there. The four wires from it connect to the controller thus;

Brown - 2
Black - 3
Blue - 7
Green yellow - connects to the yellow in the second photo that runs through a junction box to the Sunvic box on the pipe.

1.jpg 2.jpg
 
The room thermostat should go to the wiring centre, looks like it’s below the Danfoss.
 
It looks as though the green/yellow is main live :eek::eek::eek::eek: and my mistake sorry, it goes to wiring centre from the Danfoss.
 

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