Replace old stair banister - help please! (pics)

[carled]

Hi there. I have a 1948 semi that has a hallway & stairs in need of renovation. I'm going to be putting ceramic tiles down in the hallway and replacing the skirting. The existing staircase is painted in about a bazillion layers of eggshell gloss and will probably fall apart if I try and scrape it off!

I'm keen on replacing the newels, spindles and handrails if possible to let it all look a bit lighter in there. The stairs have a stringer all the way up and I'm assuming that this, at least, needs to stay as it holds the stairs together I assume!

However, I can't see how I can replace the newels easily as it all seems to be joined together rather efficiently... The bottom newel appears to go right down to the floor level. Also the newel post at the top of the stairs appears to be embedded in the brickwork/plaster as you can see the base in the second picture stopping an inch or two above the doorframe.

Any pointers/advice very gratefully received.

 

[joinerjohn]

I know that Richard Burbidge, do newel and spindle kits to alter stairs like this

Try having a look round their website. They even supply a video if your attempting this yourself.

http://www.richardburbidge.com/

 

[regsmyth]

The newels and handrails are an integral part of your staircase. They are not simple add-ons, I really wouldn't advise changing them. They are generally the main support for the staircase at the top, with a notch on the back to "hook" onto the top floor joists.

You might be able to get rid of the solid panelling though and fit balustrades between the existing stringer and handrail.

 

[dragonshine]

I am a new member here, but I like the classic Texlymat Texlyweave floor mat as you all.
I have travelled to China, a very beautiful country. I like the yummy Chinese food. I also ordered some pvc floor mat, which is really fantastic.

 

[carled]

The newels and handrails are an integral part of your staircase. They are not simple add-ons, I really wouldn't advise changing them. They are generally the main support for the staircase at the top, with a notch on the back to "hook" onto the top floor joists.

You might be able to get rid of the solid panelling though and fit balustrades between the existing stringer and handrail.

I think I'm ok with removing some of it. I spoke to Richard Burbidge's tech department and they've said I just need to leave the newels and saw them off at the correct height, therefore creating a base post. I can also saw off or carefully remove the hardboard from the stringer, put down a base rail on top of the existing stringer to cover the imperfections and work up from that.

They're putting together a parts & price list for me. Nice people there!

 

[dragonshine]

The more

Untitled

• dragonshine
• 5 Jul 2010
• 1

 

[dragonshine]

Sorry， Moderator 11. It was a mistake.
I just come back from China and ordered some pieces of floormat. I photoed my decorated house and updated the pictures. I love Chinese floormat and want to introduce it to the friends here.

 

[carled]

Sorry， Moderator 11. It was a mistake.
I just come back from China and ordered some pieces of floormat. I photoed my decorated house and updated the pictures. I love Chinese floormat and want to introduce it to the friends here.

dragonshine, please start your own thread for (what appears to be) spamming rather than cluttering mine up!

 

[joinerjohn]

Spam, without a doubt there from our oriental friend Dragonshine.


Carled, Richard Burbidge can also supply you with a video of how to do the stair job. (probably on a dvd nowadays)
Well worth watching it and keeping it handy when you start the job.
Getting the measurements right for the cutting of the newel posts is critical.

 

[big-all]

uuuuuuu tube
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=installing+burbidge+stairs&aq=f

 

[carled]

Christ, they make it look so easy in that video...

 

[dragonshine]

I really agree. The vedio is truly .....

 

[dragonshine]

I definitely agree.

 

[IJWS15]

Installed a Burbidge kit a few years ago (including dealing with a winder).

Straignt foward, follow the guide and take your time, remember measure twice, cut once.

Bear in mind that if your newels are too thin they will need building up - somehting RB cover in theri guides somewhere.