Hi,
I am wanting to replace a built in oven that was installed more than 10 years ago. Looking behind the oven there is a substantial supply cable (hard to bend, possibly 30A) coming direct from the cooker box mounted just above the work surface. The cooker box is connected direct to the 30A trip in the consumer unit. The "cooker" cable goes to a round junction box behind the oven with two heavy duty (30A) exiting. One connected to the oven and one to the hob. It looks like the existing wiring is man enough to handle substantial currents.
There are 2 types of oven available, "hard-wired" and 13amp plug. I realise that cutting the plug off the latter type and wiring it into the junction box is a complete NO! NO! as in the event of a fault the 13amp cable would melt before the 30A trip went. However I am assuming than the "hard-wired" oven has no supplied cable but has screw terminals at the back where the existing 30A cable can be attached. (I'm hoping "hard-wired" does not mean an attached 13 amp cable with no plug that requires a qualified electrician to attach a plug after fitting the oven). Therefore connecting such an oven to the existing cable would mean "30A protection" exactly as it is now?
Regards Mike
I am wanting to replace a built in oven that was installed more than 10 years ago. Looking behind the oven there is a substantial supply cable (hard to bend, possibly 30A) coming direct from the cooker box mounted just above the work surface. The cooker box is connected direct to the 30A trip in the consumer unit. The "cooker" cable goes to a round junction box behind the oven with two heavy duty (30A) exiting. One connected to the oven and one to the hob. It looks like the existing wiring is man enough to handle substantial currents.
There are 2 types of oven available, "hard-wired" and 13amp plug. I realise that cutting the plug off the latter type and wiring it into the junction box is a complete NO! NO! as in the event of a fault the 13amp cable would melt before the 30A trip went. However I am assuming than the "hard-wired" oven has no supplied cable but has screw terminals at the back where the existing 30A cable can be attached. (I'm hoping "hard-wired" does not mean an attached 13 amp cable with no plug that requires a qualified electrician to attach a plug after fitting the oven). Therefore connecting such an oven to the existing cable would mean "30A protection" exactly as it is now?
Regards Mike