Replacing a EP3001 controller

[WhiteChristmas]

I was about to order a Potterton EP6002 controller to replace my existing EP3001 as I understand the wiring and backplate are the same for all Potterton controllers. The reason I want to replace the 3001 is because it can't run the hot water and heating separately. This isn’t an issue during the summer as I just turn the heating off, but with winter on its way it’s nice to have the control, especially now we have a little girl. It would also be nice not to have to reset the on off times if there is ever a power cut (or the RCD trips).

Anyway, the reason I hesitated clicking on the buy button is that the EP6002 is for fully pumped systems and I’m not sure if I have one (feel free to mock me). I would appreciate some advice on how to tell if my system is fully pumped (and also if it’s a sealed system). I understand that for a gravity fed system, the hot water tank is usually placed upstairs but is this always the case - I just wanted to make doubly sure?

We have (presumably) an old system (we moved in around two years ago), our boiler and hot water tank are located on the ground floor, with a separate pump that is used for the shower. We don’t have any thermostats on the wall, only some on the newer radiators.

Sorry for the long post, if you need any additional information, let me know.

Chris

 

[kirkgas]

if you have a fully pumped system the cylinder can be anywhere in relation to the boiler, as the pump sends the water from the boiler to the cylinder, you will have either 2 x 2 port zone valves or 1 x 3 port valve, (silver or white electrical boxes on top of a brass valve with pipes going through it), if it is gravity the cylinder MUST be above the boiler as the water rises to the cylinder (by gravity ) if you have gravity you wont be able to have heating only as the water circulates to the tank whenever the boiler is on, if you could post a couple of pics of the pipework at the cylinder we might be able to identify your system

 

[WhiteChristmas]

Can't say as I've noticed any attachments to the cylinder but then I don't really know what I'm looking for.

The boiler is right next to the cylinder on the ground floor which is why I'm assuming it's not gravity fed.

I will clear out some of the carp in the utility room tonight and take some photos as it would be good to have a definitve answer (shame I didn't know to ask the question last time the boiler was serviced).

Thanks for your help.

Chris

 

[kirkgas]

if they are both on the same level they will be fully pumped. changing the clock to give you either heating or hot water will still depend on which valve(s) you have and the wiring, so post a couple of pics to help, google 2 port and 3 port valve to see what i was on about

 

[WhiteChristmas]

Thanks again, I had a google!

Seems like complicated stuff!

Will post some pictures.

Chris

 

[WhiteChristmas]

Okay, took some photos so let me know if you need any more info...

Untitled

• WhiteChristmas
• 28 Sep 2009
• 1

Untitled

• WhiteChristmas
• 28 Sep 2009
• 1

Untitled

• WhiteChristmas
• 28 Sep 2009
• 1

Untitled

• WhiteChristmas
• 28 Sep 2009
• 1

Untitled

• WhiteChristmas
• 28 Sep 2009
• 1

Untitled

• WhiteChristmas
• 28 Sep 2009
• 1

 

[bengasman]

You have what is known as a "y-plan".
I would recommend you forget about buying another potterton programmer, and get the honeywell st9400c; it is far better, and universally known.

 

[WhiteChristmas]

You have what is known as a "y-plan".
I would recommend you forget about buying another potterton programmer, and get the honeywell st9400c; it is far better, and universally known.

Thanks for your reply.

Does that mean I have to replace the whole timer unit (i.e. it doesn't just connect up to the existing backplate)? I expect this is something I'll have to get a proffessional in to do?

 

[bengasman]

The backplates are different, and it would be best anyway to have a pro to do it.
Because this model has completely independent timing, the system should be balanced in such a way that that it runs most effectively on CH only.
If you combine it with a service (including adding inhibitor) you should get good value for money, and a system that is significantly faster in providing hot water and warming the place up.

As it so happens, the job I go to tomorrow has an ep2002 which was diyed, and it really didn't work all that well. I will replace it with the same st9400c that I mentioned here.