replacing bathroom tiles

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i,m going to replace the tiles in my bathroom what i want to know is do i need to prep the walls after removing the old tiles or can i just tile over where ive removed them from they only go half way up the wall the rest is painted, im wanting to tile all the wall would diluted pva be ok to put on the painted area so the new tiles bond?
 
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DO NOT use standard PVA, it’s completely unsuitable for use as a tile primer; far from acting as a bonding agent the tiles may well end up on the floor. What are your walls made of? Has removing the tiles damaged the plaster? What type of paint is on the walls? What type/size/weight are the new tiles you are thinking of using? Are any wet areas involved, shower enclosures & around baths?
 
yes the tiles will be going round the bath, the walls are not bad plaster seems ok, the paint is emulsion, the tile size will be 10"x 8" or something simular
 
What are the walls made of plasterboard over stud work or are they plaster over block work?
 
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2 walls are plaster on blockwork and the other 2 are stud walls
 
What are the two walls adjacent to the bath, stud or block? For the tile size you say “or something similar” but do you know what tiles you will be using yet? You’re getting near the ideal size limit for tub adhesive, any larger & I would normally use powder adhesive which needs different preparation. The tile weight is also important with regard to plaster which has a maximum weight limit; although I don’t see any problems with tiles that size.

You need to check the paint bond to the plaster; stick a 300mm length of Gaffa tape over it & pull off slowly if the paint stays put your OK if it comes off with the tape, you will have to strip it off; test several different areas. Do you know what type of emulsion it is ordinary matt, acrylic, silk, special bathroom paint?
 
havn,t seen any tiles yet but thats the size im after, the walls are blockwork adjacent to bath, not sure what type paint is but it doesnt seem to be flakey anywhare. i will do the gaffa tape thing and take it from therethanks for all your info richard its very much appreciated.
 
If the tape test proves the paint to be sound, give it a good going over with some 120 grit sandpaper to abrade the surface; you don’t need to prime the paint surface but use an acrylic primer on the bare plaster surfaces. As long as you don’t go any bigger on tile size, a decent tub mix will do you http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/grip on the solid walls but for the plasterboard you will need a flexy adhesive; http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/white-star depending on how much addy you need or if in doubt, use the flexible on everything but the drying time will be extended minimum 3 days before grouting but test; don’t get the tiles overly wet for around 14 days.
You will also need a flexible grout for the PB http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/microflex but, again, you can use that everywhere if it’s easier.

Here's the standard bit; tiling isn’t rocket science but there are still many things that can catch you out, particularly if you intend tiling a suspended timber floor. I would advise you read the Tiling Sticky & Forum Archive posts before doing any work or buying materials, it could prevent you making disastrous & potentially expensive mistakes. It’s important to use only quality trade tilling materials of the correct type for your tiles & tile base; cheapo own brand & DIY stuff is mostly crap.
 

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