Replacing Drayton Thermostats

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Hi all

I know this question has probably come up before, but I've searched through things & still at square one.

We've got an old Ideal W2000 boiler & apart from a couple of small issues it's been OK. A few days ago the boiler fired up for the central heating, only to cut out 30secs later. Now the CH will not work at all. The hot water still runs as it should & the boiler will fire up if I boost the hot water, but the CH is unresponsive.

Now, we are waiting for the boiler to be changed over to a combined but obviously no heating at this time of year is not nice! So I thought I,d try the quick/easy route of replacing the thermostat. I've just changed the old Drayton thermostat for a new Drayton RTS1, but he heating still won't come on.

Any ideas?
 
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There is a three-way valve, which appears to be operating fine. It sits in one position for the hot water, and when the CH is turned on it moves position. However, nothing else happens.
 
how many wires went to the old stat? Lots of older ones just have a permanent live (in) and a switched live (out), plus an earth wire.

The newer ones (and IIRC the Drayton you mention) has an electronic sensor, and it needs a permanent live and a neutral in, to give it power, as well as a switched live out, so you need 3-core and earth cable.

DON'T use the earth wire in twin and earth for a to carry current.

You can get other stats which run off a battery, it usually lasts two or three years.

There are probably old-style stats with just a bimetallic strip that would work like your old one, though they are not as sensitive and accurate as the new type.

edited
As the problem occurred before you changed the stat, this is probably irrelevant. It is probably a problem connected with your motorised valve. Feel the three pipes. The one at the bottom of the "T" shape should be hot. Are either of the other two?

Also feel your pump. Is it hotter than the pipes going into it?
 
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Have you a multimeter and know how to use it.

If so in the heating only mode and the room stat calling, is there power on the white and orange wires from the MV.
 
If it's moving to ch position it's more likely not moving fully to ch position
or the micro switch is faulty.
With ch on only you should have 230 on the white, grey, orange wires to valve.
 
Is there a way I can bypass the thermostat to see if it's definitely causing the issue? Connect 2wires to complete the circuit maybe?
 
Is there a way I can bypass the thermostat to see if it's definitely causing the issue? Connect 2wires to complete the circuit maybe?

Why bypass the stat ?
You say the valve is going to ch position so stat is working.
Just check voltage at valve wires.
 
OK, thanks guys.

Will get the brother in law over with his kit as he has a bit more knowledge than me. Plus if it is the valve, think he has a spare.

Cheers for the advise, will let you know how I get on.
 
If 3 way valve is moving when heating selected then this would normally indicate that its getting a demand from the room stat so your fault will be with the 3 port valve head. There is a little board in them that goes and usually requires new head or entire valve depending on model.
 
Have you a multimeter and know how to use it.

If so in the heating only mode and the room stat calling, is there power on the white and orange wires from the MV.

Think we've been ignored again. :mrgreen:
 
Sorry guys, not ignoring you. Got fed up & started on a curtain pole loo.

Will try what you suggested tomorrow if I can.
 

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