Replacing floorboards

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I need to replace the odd floorboard of the base timber flooring in my Victorian house. What specs should I look for in the board? I will measure the width and thickness. It's not tongue and groove.

Thanks
 
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timber yard builders merchant 6x1" par[20-20'5mmx 143mm] or 5x1" planed [119mm]
 
Problem is that 5 x 1 or 6 x 1 won't be anywhere near wide enough - the ones in our upstairs rooms (1881 house) are 8in and 10in wide respectively and I can still buy 8 and 9in boards locally (10in is a bit of a stretch). OP, have you actually lifted a board yet? A lot of Victorian floorboards were finished at 1in (25mm) or even 1-1/8in (28mm) whereas a new "1in" board will be finished at 20 to 22mm. It may be worth measuring the boards and seeing if you can source exact size replacements from a local salvage yard. Either way, if you don't have one already, now might be the time to consider investing in a circular saw
 
Thanks both. I have lifted and odd say they're around 22mm. They also appear rather narrow, but I will measure them today to be sure. I was looking online for reclaimed boards but they seem pricey. I think I'm looking in the wrong place.

In buying the new timber, does the would need to be a particular type? I redwood is common, or would is any softwood fine as long as it gets acclimatised before installing?
 
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If you just want to replace the boards then ask for square edge planking - you'll probably get whitewood which isn't as good as joinery grade redwood, but costs less, and it will do the job. If buying from a timber merchant the timber has been kiln dried and should have been stored either under cover or at least in polythene-wrapped packs (normally a couple of tons per pack), so there should be no need to acclimatise it.

Some stuff, like recycled, seems more expensive when bought on line. I used to buy recycled pitch pine from a local demolition company - no on line presence, just walk into the yard and ask, but about half the price of the other relatively local but snotty outfit I found on-line. I think some on-line shops trade on snob value and charge accordingly
 
Thanks.

I found a builders merchant online selling Redwood that seams pretty reasonable.

I measured this morning and found 2 different sizes, I think an area was more recently replaced. They are 6 x 3/4 (so 6x1 i think), and 5 1/2 x 20. I assume that slight difference in thickness would be okay under a 6mm board and underlay.
 
the worked size is always smaller as in 6x1 is sawn size then planing /working removes material
 
I found a builders merchant online selling Redwood that seams pretty reasonable
Redwood is more durable and wera-resistant than white, so a better choice

I measured this morning and found 2 different sizes, I think an area was more recently replaced. They are 6 x 3/4 (so 6x1 i think), and 5 1/2 x 20. I assume that slight difference in thickness would be okay under a 6mm board and underlay.
When dealing with merchants what you need to as for is the "finished size". Redwood ex-6 x 1in will generally finish around 144 x 22mm, white wood would be a millimetre or two smaller - be very aware that there is no absolute fixed standard in terms of the finished sizes, so one yard's 6 x 1 could finish at 144 x 22mm and another might be 140 x 21mm, hence the need to ask for the finished size. Being slightly undersize in thickness isn't too much of a problem as you can always add packers (plastic horseshoe packers come in 1, 2, 4, 5mm etc - hardboard is about 3.2mm) to the tops of the joists to bring a 20mm thick board level with existing 22mm or even 25mm boards (this makes for a flatter floor and you also avoid any dip telegraphing through your carpets, as it invariably does) - being undersize in terms of width is more of an issue, hence my earlier comments about the usefulness of having a portable circular saw to resize boards to the required width
 
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Thanks for the very clear answers, definitely need to trip to the local timber yard. Seems I should buy thinner and pack to the required level.

A friend has a circular saw that I will borrow.
 
Make sure you get the rip fence with it - kind of difficult to saw a straight line without a rip fence!

Yep, I recently trimmed a door down which took a lot of planing afterwards.


Timber planks and 6mm boards bought, much cheaper than online in the end. Fingers crossed now
 

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