Replacing garage light switch with a sensor and override

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Evening all,

I'm trying to replace a normal on/off light switch with a sensor/motion detector with an override switch. In short, if the PIR doesn't work for some reason, then I can just switch the light on.

http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/0901s/switch-pir-switched/dp/PL11072?CMP=TREML007-005
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5xaruXxRy2tc3V2Zk42S1BmbDdoY0IyUDFVTnc3WVlneDJZ

It doesn't work when I replace it. It works fine with the original switch, but as soon as I change it to the PIR - the light doesn't come on. Any ideas why? Thanks.
 
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How did you wire the PIR switch up? Your photo is of the original switch, not the new one.
 
Requires a neutral wire, you can get them that don’t .

  • This is a 3 wire switch (requires neutral)
  • Ratings: Max. 10A (2400W) incandescent lamps or 3A (720W) energy saving lamps, fluorescent lights & exhaust fans
 
Requires a neutral wire, you can get them that don’t .

  • This is a 3 wire switch (requires neutral)
  • Ratings: Max. 10A (2400W) incandescent lamps or 3A (720W) energy saving lamps, fluorescent lights & exhaust fans

He has a neutral, 2 of 'em in fact in a choc block. See 2nd picture. Whether he has connected them to the switch or not is another matter.
 
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Just cos they're blue....

Think fox is talking about the PIR (switch) not the mechanical one.

As BAS says, we need to see how it has been connected up.
 
He has a neutral, 2 of 'em in fact in a choc block.
Probably.

Whether he has connected them to the switch or not is another matter.
Well, this is the diagram in the instructions:

upload_2018-2-19_2-12-1.png


so there'd not be any excuse not to....
 
It has this in the product link:

upload_2018-2-19_11-43-9.png


Something lost in translation, probably.

Does the switch actually override the PIR or does it just turn on the supply to the PIR?
 
Bit gash...

There's no off position & folk will fiddle with it.
 
Not necessarily - if there's only a limited number of folk who use the garage, and they have the smarts to learn how the switch works, there'll be no problems.
 
Are the blues neutral, or are they nothing because the original switch was installed by a numpty who thought he could only use browns in a switch drop?
 
I've tried both ways with the browns - no difference. For the neutrals - no idea. How would I tell? Thanks.
 
By using your multimeter or other two-pole voltage tester, which is a tool you should have if you want to do electrical work as it is as essential as screwdrivers and wire cutters etc, to check that there is a voltage between them and the line conductor.

And by seeing where they are connected at the other end(s).
 

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