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Replacing Ideal Standard Turbo Boiler

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by markocosic, 4 Jan 2008.

  1. markocosic


    10 Nov 2007
    Thanks Received:
    United Kingdom

    I'm trying to scope out what needs to be done to replace an "Ideal Standard Turbo 2" boiler/central heating gubbins and would like some help from the knowledgeable folks - I've yet to find a plumber or heating tech in this area (Pembrokeshire) that's any good... :confused:

    First the existing bits. Diagrams here: (the thing I labelled a pressure relief valve may in fact be an auto air vent - not really sure - else it should be accurate)

    Apart from the outside taps and heating system fill hose, all the water runs through a 2.1 bar regulator. Hot water system is sealed, unvented, and also runs at 2.1bar.

    It's all heated by gas, using a 12kW non-combi condensing boiler. This is plenty adequate for our needs in terms of size, but the boiler was a heap of junk from new reliability-wise (averaging a breakdown every two years :rolleyes: ) and now the main heat exchanger widget (hulking great block of alloy) inside it has corroded through and leaks so it desparately needs replacing.

    There are photographs of the present installation here. The plumber who did it had never installed a pressurised hot water system or condensing boiler before he went on a course to do this one - and it shows... :LOL:

    The gas supply is from this meter, and is 18m of 22mm pipe with four 90 deg elbows.

    Problems with the present setup:
    *It's in the kitchen. I'd like to put the replacement in the airing cupboard. Space available is 700 high, 800 wide, 530 deep. More height available (350mm) by moving the blue pressure sphere, but bonus for avoiding doing this!
    *There's no master thermostat (rads have thermostatic ones), and putting one somewhere useful would be a wiring nightmare. A wireless master stat would be super/worth 250 quid in faffing avoidance.
    *It's really noisy, and always has been. (no kettling/clanking just fan noise/panels vibrating) Ideally the new one would be quieter than the dishwasher (46dB)
    *It has far too many controls for she who must be obeyed to fiddle with. Ideally a new one would have an on switch, a hot water temp dial, and a master stat... :oops:
    *The boiler was patently not fit for purpose (it has required more than an annual clean/service over the past 20 years) but the manufacturer accepts zero responsibility for this. I'd like a new one that is fit for purpose, and it cannot be an Ideal Standard boiler regardless of apparent suitability...

    Other notes:
    Flue and condensate drain go straight out through the wall behind. Gas inlet from bottom or LHS is good. Water connections from bottom or RHS are good.

    I don't know what the system volume is (for pressure sphere/expansion purposes) at the minute - any easy way to estimate it?

    What boiler/heating system would you recommend?

    Should we try to fit something like this:
    ditching all the old control systems/valves/masses of odd pipes

    Or do something totally different and say ditch the whole lot, reclaim the airing cupboard space as worktop and fit some monstrous combi affair underneath?

    Which manufacturers would you "fit and forget" aside from servicing?/Who are the Miele of boilers?

    Cheers for you patience if you've got this far!
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  3. NevG


    15 Feb 2008
    Thanks Received:
    United Kingdom
    I have been planning to replace my old turbo2, 24kw, and I reckon the Viessmann boilers with stainless exchangers are best for reliability.- others may know better, but a 5 year guarantee is a good start.

    10 rooms with 5 zones each independantly controlled with timer stats in each zone & motorised valves.
    When room goes cold the stat opens the zone valve, and the "end switch" on the valve makes contact.
    All the end switches are linked in parallel, and the 2 core wire goes back to the boiler. Therefore any zone that opens also triggers the boiler as needed.

    Basically this is extra efficient as it only heats the rooms I need when I need them, as each zone is timed to suit.

    Always remember to have the minimum loading & flow - I use hall, stairs, landing & bathroom as the "shunt" which never closes, and these heat up regardless of which other zone is demanding heat.

    It is now not necessary to have such complex controllers - just rad stats and simple zones, as I believe the new condensing boilers are "modulating" and reduce heat output as the return water temp rises, thus using less gas.

    I have 16 rads on my system, some double 5ft.
    I also have fitted a "return water temp stat" to prevent cycling, but new boilers have this included.
    Best of luck
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