Replacing isolation valves in loft cold water tanks

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I've two large cold water storage tanks in the loft connected to each via one pipe at the bottom of the tanks.

There are two old exit Gate Vales that are seized up, in open position.

There is a cold water 15mm feed to the Ball Cock valve but no isolating valve.

I'm considering replacing both Gate Valves with Full Bore Lever Valves and also fitting one Full Bore Lever Valve to isolate the Cold Water supply to BallCock.

I'm reluctant to use standard isolator valves with the screwdriver slot as sometimes they are tight to operate and the slot can be chewed up in use.

What would you recommend is the best way forwards.
 
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Turn of water at stop stop, then open the cold water tap at the kitchen.
Then at CWSC (cold water storage cistern) Press down the float valve down, so air will then allow rising main to empty. You can then cut in to rising main and fit service valve.

For the CWSC you can drain down and fit gate valves, or freeze pipes.
 
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get some bungs:

119000_118180_20619_61542186_thumb.jpg


and shove them in the cold feeds to the gate valves you want to change, it saves you draining the tank ;)
 
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Turn of water at stop stop, then open the cold water tap at the kitchen.
Then at CWSC (cold water storage cistern) Press down the float valve down, so air will then allow rising main to empty. You can then cut in to rising main and fit service valve.

For the CWSC you can drain down and fit gate valves, or freeze pipes.
Do you think Lever full bore valves are better than fitting Gate Valves again ?
 
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Have you tried slackening off the gland nuts on the gate valve spindles to see if that eases off the seizure. If it does then exercise valves and retighten gland nuts sufficient to stop any seepage.
 
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Hi
In my experience (granted, not as extensive as many others on this forum) gate valves are worse than useless. I've never come across one (out of dozens) that completely shuts off the water.
Full bore lever valves are, on the other hand, excellent, and I tend to use them wherever there is room, or the smaller-handled full bore valves if space is lacking. Peglers are a quality brand.
Steve
 
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Hi
In my experience (granted, not as extensive as many others on this forum) gate valves are worse than useless. I've never come across one (out of dozens) that completely shuts off the water.
Full bore lever valves are, on the other hand, excellent, and I tend to use them wherever there is room, or the smaller-handled full bore valves if space is lacking. Peglers are a quality brand.
Steve

I forgot to mention that it's 25mm outside diameter older copper pipe with one gate valve fitted and I have to fit another one.
Does anyone supply a gate valve or lever full bore isolation valve to fit 25mm pipe or is their an adaptor to solve the problem
 
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Hi

Sorry, I've not come across 25mm OD copper pipe. If it was imperial 3/4 it would be just under 22mm, and imperial 1" is just under 28mm, so it doesn't sound like that. (If it is imperial, you can get different olives to use with metric fittings.)
Steve
 
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