Replacing oil boiler for condensing oil boiler??

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Would fitting a condensing oil boiler to an existing flue still condense and drain back to boiler, looking at 2.5m's 135 degree's off the boiler in old cement-asbestos flue. Before running into chimney stack, yet to see if there is a cement liner present in stack?
Adding a stainless flue to the boiler would make the whole job double the cost easily!
Replacing with a normal boiler is virtually impossible due to regs as well!

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I don't get involved with oil, but I would certainly NOT recommend keeping this flue in place. Even though the asbestos content is very low usually in these, it is still a risk.

I also assume that oil boilers, like gas, have to have a minimum of 600mm vertical off the boiler before the first bend in the flue.
 
You could not use that flue. You would have to use a boiler manufacturer supplied flue. Extended flues are possible depending on the route, number of bends etc. A condensing boiler uses a concentric flue where the condensate falls back down the outer section. Ideally move the boiler to an outside wall or even use an external boiler.
Due to the higher efficiency of non condensing oil boilers (compared to gas) it may be possible to install one based on it's sedbuk rating - not sure?!
 
Are the regs stating that all new new boilers must have brand new fitted to them in entirety, or as conventional flue existing can be used also??
SEBUK. Could a non-condensing model really be used at 85% efficiency?
Might be possible to get a balanced flue out but this house is cut into hill-side (up-side down house), so there is ground for maybe 2m high outside to the left of the boiler now in!
Whats the min height for a balanced flue with a grill on it?
 
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Are the regs stating that all new new boilers must have brand new fitted to them in entirety, or as conventional flue existing can be used also??

The important thing is that the boiler is designed to work with the flue that is designed for it. There is no way that you could flue the boiler into another existing, old duct; for a start the flue is also the intake for the combuster...
Part J gives the requirements for flue siting etc the manufacturer will tell you how you may be able to flue in your particular postion. As mentioned an external wall or an outside boiler is the way to go.
As for boiler efficiencies, oil tend to be more efficient . . .
 
pity you didnt show what it was connected to, a 12 kw thorn panda?
 
Although oil gives a higher combustion efficiency, our Government have 'capped' the efficiency bands of the most efficient non-condensing oilers to SEDBUK C.

Even though they technically reach an efficiency of SEDBUK B.

Therefore to meet UK building regs it has to be a condenser, with the special flue requirements.

This is the same government who is encouraging solar panels, with a repayment time of somewhere in between 30 and 208 years for domestic hot water.

One has to wonder what their motivations are for such untruths.
 
One has to wonder what their motivations are for such untruths.

No reason other than Prescott and Beckett haven't got any intelligence whatever.

Mike2007, you may be able to fit a non-condensing boiler, but not with a flue configured as in the pics. How about some more pics?
 
One has to wonder what their motivations are for such untruths.

No reason other than Prescott and Beckett haven't got any intelligence whatever.

Mike2007, you may be able to fit a non-condensing boiler, but not with a flue configured as in the pics. How about some more pics?
Thanks for everyone's reply!
Thought unless you can not get rid of condensate (can be pumped almost anywhere I believe) you had to install a condensing boiler.
Will do a drawing and add later on...
 

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