Replacing outside lights

[superdon]

We currently have two 150w outside lights, that are very old and looking sorry for themselves. I have had to take them down as I am painting the render.

I want to replace them and was thinking of some LED floodlights instead.

The current ones are wired from a switch in the house, a cable goes into the first light and then another comes out of the first and goes to the second light.

The LED lights I am looking at all come with cables already attached. So I need a couple of junction boxes?

If that's right, can anyone recommend any very very small boxes that will do the job (waterproof and all that) or let me know of there's another way I can do it.

Cheers

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

"Wiska Combi Outdoor Electrical Junction Box", they come in varying sizes, I think the smaller ones are about 85mm.
But you could always remove the flex on the LED fittings, then loop between a pair, proving entry hole allow!

 

[superdon]

Thanks. I was hoping for something really small, but I can't find anything.

This ones a bit smaller http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/98373-ip55-junction-box-5-term-70x70x40mm-epjbr4-smj-electrical.html would that be ok? Would prefer a black box though I think!

Haven't ordered the lights but the LED flood lights I have seen in the flesh have really small entry holes and I don't think I would get my cables in.

 

[Taylortwocities]

That one is only 6mm smaller than the Wiska.
They are all at least that size, so one can connect lots of cables together.

Others may know of a smaller one.

 

[superdon]

I didn't see the 76mm wiska boxes....http://uk.farnell.com/wiska/combi-108-5-s/junction-box-pp-blk-76x76x51mm/dp/2356064

So with these, do I need anything else or are the self sealing cable entries ok?

 

[Taylortwocities]

You'll need some glands like these
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/EK251B.html
Or they will leak. Make sure u get the right size gland for yr cable

 

[superdon]

Right thanks.

At the moment the lights are run off 10mm grey oval cable. I have a feeling this isn't the correct cable? And, it looks crap. The cabel comes out of the house in the covered alleyway and then is routed round to the lights. I am thinking of cutting the oval cable just after it reaches the alleyway, then putting in a new junction box to feed the lights.

Which cable is best? Could do with it being black or paintable.

So, plan at the moment is to get....

3 of the wiska boxes (one for each light and one where I cut the old cable)
http://uk.farnell.com/wiska/combi-108-5-s/junction-box-pp-blk-76x76x51mm/dp/2356064#accessories

Some of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121288347...49&var=420243934079&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

And whatever cable?

The light fittings I plan to use are...

http://www.ledhut.co.uk/led-flood-lights/new-10-watt-led-floodlight.html
And
http://www.ledhut.co.uk/led-flood-lights/new-20-watt-led-floodlight.html

 

[superdon]

I think I now have a plan but really need help with the cable choice. Currently it's 10mm oval twin and earth.

I was planning to cut the twin and earth where it is under the side covered alleyway and putting in a junction box and then using the new cable on the outside. Is it ok to mix cable on a run like this? If so, which cable is best to use for the LED lights? I intended on just pinning it to the wall, so needs to be fairly hard wearing, but as flexible and narrow as possible.

If I can get this bit sorted, I think I am good to go.

 

[Aragorn84]

Use something like this:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Index/NYY/

The T&E shouldnt really be run outside. Ideally you should bring it straight into the back of the first junction box and run the above stuff from there.

 

[superdon]

Use something like this:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Index/NYY/

The T&E shouldnt really be run outside. Ideally you should bring it straight into the back of the first junction box and run the above stuff from there.

Ideally, I would go back into the house and change all the way through, but that's not possible at the moment.

Where I plan to install the first new junction box is under a full roof and is sealed from the elements, so although technically it's outside the house, it's not really.

Had a look at that NYY cable and it sounds a bit too rigid for what I need. I have a couple of corners to go around.

 

[Aragorn84]

The issue is glanding the T&E into your JB. The glands are designed to be used with round cable, not flat T&E.


I'd have suggested Hi-Tuf instead of the NYY-J but TLC dont seem to list it any more.

Why dont you think it'll go round corners? Its just a PVC cable, similar to the T&E?

 

[superdon]

Thanks again.

I will just use the membrane for where the twin and earth goes in the first junction box. Like I say that junction box is in a totally dry area anyway.

As for the cable. So the NYY will go around the corner of a wall ok? I was just worried it was quite bulky and wouldn't flex.

I was also told to look at rubber 3183 or H07RNF

 

[Taylortwocities]

As for the cable. So the NYY will go around the corner of a wall ok? I was just worried it was quite bulky and wouldn't flex.

NYY cable Minimum Bending Radius: 15 x Overall Diameter for Solid Conductors. 12 x Overall Diameter for Stranded Conductors

 

[superdon]

Thanks. The HO7 says 3 x diameter when fixed.

I am struggling to imagine what that actually means in real terms. Is the H07 much more flexible than the NYY?

 

[bernardgreen]

Flexibility and bendability are not the same thing for a cable

A bend is a one time event when the cable is installed. Flexing can be continuous.

Minimum bend 3 x diameter when fixed. means than the inside curve of the tightest bend in the cable must be a part of a circle the radius of which is no smaller than 3 times the diameter of the cable.

It can help to draw that size circle on a piece of cardboard and use that as a template when planning where to run the cable.

Some cable will only take the tightest bend once, straightening a very tight bend and then re-bending at the same point can damage the internal structure of the cable.

Some cable cannot be installed if the cable / weather is too cold as the cold material is then too stiff to bend properly.