replacing RMT 230 keeps blowing up my controller

[gullarm]

I changed my RMT 230 stat to an electronic type as the readings were way out, the house was at 20 deg and the stat was clicking on and off at 14deg.

Any way I wired it up wrong and blew the TS715 controller. Trip went as well. Think I connected Live and Neutral. The controller was still functioning but didnt actually do anything. Check the stat wiring and have lost the 240v.

Managed to get my boiler working by bypassing the controller with a control link. Glow worm man showed me how.

Just bought a new controller, fitted it and put the old stat back on. Removed control link.

Every thing works fine.

Replaced the stat with the new one, wired up right this time ( I think ), worked fine. Took it back off to mount on the wall, mounted on wall fired up the boiler and now no heating, checked the connections all seem ok. The boiler is showing state S30 - no 240 v controls in the error list. I have also checked the new stat is clicking on and off and making a connection across the terminals using my DVM.

I wired my new stat with the Grey and Black and tucked the Brown away.

So im totally flummoxed now.

There are 3 wires to my old stat

Brown to pin 4
Grey to pin 1
Black to pin 3

Heres a piccy

//media.diynot.com/29000_28696_27413_94061032_thumb.jpg?

Put the old stat back on. I now have 240v on the Brown but nothing else.




This is turning out to be an expensive job.

 

[DP]

For starters, what FUSE have you got protecting the heating system? I bet it is a 13 amp more suited for a three bar fire. A 3 amp fuse would have forgiven you for miswiring and not killed the programmer.

4 should be BLACK which is neutral
1 should be BROWN from the programmer
2 should be GREY goes forth and gives you heat by turning the boiler on

Above is if wiring is standarised.

In your case grey seems to be used as live feed to the roomstat which goes directly to black and turns your roomstat to a 3 bar fire frying the TS715.

 

[gullarm]

yup 13 amp - now changed to 3 amp.

I have rewired as you suggested, and its now working!

there is still no Voltage on the Black - I assume its not actually needed.


So I need to connect BROWN and GREY to my new stat and not BLACK and GREY?

It worked for a time using black and grey, which made me think I had cracked it.

 

[matt1e]

For starters, what FUSE have you got protecting the heating system? I bet it is a 13 amp more suited for a three bar fire. A 3 amp fuse would have forgiven you for miswiring and not killed the programmer.

4 should be BLACK which is neutral
1 should be BROWN from the programmer
2 should be GREY goes forth and gives you heat by turning the boiler on

Above is if wiring is standarised.

In your case grey seems to be used as live feed to the roomstat which goes directly to black and turns your roomstat to a 3 bar fire frying the TS715.

DP you're getting mixed up mate, even though you're right in this case (Op's black is neutral) your wrong about the standard
standardised Grey not black should be neutral (and should be sleeved/marked blue)
brown would normally be live
black would normally be switched live (and should be sleeved/marked brown
though with heating controls you just never know

Matt

 

[DP]

Matt1e, thanks for putting me right. I was more concerned with wire connections to stat instead of standardised colours.

OP, you need the neutral to make the stat work correctly